N9457X5 Roper Range - Instructions

First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.

I removed only 3 screws that allowed me to lift the glass top on the stove. I removed the burner and I could see where it short circuited. I ordered the new burner element. After it arrived I replaced it by moving the wires from the old element to the new element, and put it back together.
I am sure that I saved at least $200 in "labor".

I simply looked at the new switch , to see how it fastened in the stove. It had plastic clips that were easily depressed to allow the swithch to be removed. I removed it , (after turning the circuit breaker off to the stove) removed the three wires , and replace them on the new switch and simply pushed it in the space. It snapped in place , and the job was done . Works great!

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

lifted hood top unscrewed 4 small screws opening lid to switch housing took out 2 small screws that held the switch and then transfered wires to new switch replaced new switch with 2 new screws and back to working again walla! Time spent less than 30 minutes very simple as the instructions were very self explainatory.

I reviewed the schematic. Removed the outer casing. Pulled out the existing wires and replaced them exactly on the new switch. Snipped out off the control stem to match the others. There was a small metal piece on the old stem which holds on the knob. I removed it from the old stem and put it on the new stem and Eureka.

I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

It is really easy to replace IF you know that the tabs that hold the switch in are ON THE TOP AND NOT ON THE SIDES. I wasted a lot of time prying on the sides to get the switch out. It would have been really easy if I had known the tabs were on the top and bottom.

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

removed 2 screws holding top in place witch gave me ac access to none working part. removed 5 screws witch let me remove part, reversed order to reinstall part, very easy
Donald Carpenter

Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch.
NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795!
I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!

I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.

The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.

I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.

I have reinstalled the earlier unit.

Is part# PS 11744446 no longer available?



James E Weimholt. jmwm4031@verizon.net