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MZD2766GEW Maytag Refrigerator - Overview

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Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$95.17
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
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(187)
Part #D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Water Filter – Part Number: EDR7D1
No Longer Available
Water Filter
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(5)
Part #EDR7D1
This is the replacement water filter for your refrigerator. It is white in color with a red cap and is approximately 3 inches wide and 6 inches tall. The water filter reduces contaminants and improves taste in your refrigerator water supply. It is recommended to replace the water filter every six months to maintain effectiveness. You will find the water filter at the back, top portion of your fresh food compartment. To remove the filter, simply twist it to the left until it can be removed. Then, remove the cap on the new filter, line up the arrow with the indentation, and twist to the right until it is secure. You may want to put a towel down below the filter when completing this repair, to catch any spills or drips. When you replace the water filter, hold down the dispenser trigger for a few minutes so that all the air is purged from the water lines, and the water tank fills up. This is an OEM part and is sold individually.
Light Bulb - 120V 25W – Part Number: WPA3073101
$13.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 120V 25W
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(10)
Part #WPA3073101
This light bulb is a 120 volt, 25 watt incandescent appliance light bulb with a small base screw-in that fits in a variety of appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, freezers, cooktops, or stoves. Its purpose is to light up the appliance when the door is open. This is a genuine OEM part. You may need to replace the light bulb if the existing bulb is burnt out or broken. This light bulb is sold individually and is a common wear part, it is recommended to order a spare.
Ice Dispenser Solenoid and Door Kit – Part Number: 12001991
$134.21
In Stock
Ice Dispenser Solenoid and Door Kit
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(15)
Part #12001991
In addition to the solenoid (115V), this kit also comes with a door strike and an ice door assembly. Please be advised the spring and roll pin are not included with this kit.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$30.53
In Stock
Door Switch
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(40)
Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Adaptive Defrost Board – Part Number: 61005988
No Longer Available
Adaptive Defrost Board
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(4)
Part #61005988
This part allows the refrigerator to go into defrost mode only when required.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
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(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
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(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Refrigerator Run Capacitor – Part Number: WP65889-4
$54.24
In Stock
Refrigerator Run Capacitor
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(5)
Part #WP65889-4
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the run capacitor may need replacing. This repair is fairly easy to complete, and the only tools you will require are a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a 1/4 inch socket with a small ratchet. The run capacitor is located in the back of the fridge, so you will need to make sure you have room to work on this repair. Make sure to unplug the fridge prior to beginning the repair.
Crisper Drawer Shelf Support – Part Number: 67764-1
No Longer Available
Crisper Drawer Shelf Support
Part #67764-1
This crisper drawer shelf support is used for many refrigerators.
Defrost Heater and Thermostat Assembly – Part Number: WP61006199
$62.60
In Stock
Defrost Heater and Thermostat Assembly
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(5)
Part #WP61006199
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature.
Light Bulb - 7W – Part Number: W10857122
$16.07
In Stock
Light Bulb - 7W
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Part #W10857122
Sold individually. This bulb is a 7-watt appliance incandescent light bulb. This appliance light bulb is two inches long. It is used for many clothes dryers. You will need a Phillips screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Unplug the power from your dryer. You will find the light bulb by opening your dryer door and locating the casing surrounding the bulb on the top of the inside of the door. You will need to remove the single screw holding it in place to access the bulb. Twist the old bulb out of place. Use your pliers if the base of the bulb is still inside the socket once the glass part of the bulb has been removed. Check to make sure that the socket itself is not damaged. If the socket is damaged it will need to be replaced as well. Screw your new bulb into place.

Manuals & Care Guides for MZD2766GEW

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Common Symptoms of the MZD2766GEW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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ICE Maker stopped making ice.
608 of 733 people found this instruction helpful.
  • harry from Tullahoma, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the failed ice maker and performed a post-mortum to detemine the root-cause of the failure. Removal began with me reaching behind the icemaker and disconnecting the power to the icemaker. Then I removed the single screw that attached the supporting "L" bracket located on the bottom of the icemaker unit. I then carefully lifte d the bottom of the icemaker away from the wall. This move disengaged the two plastic latching features that anchored the top of the icemaker to the refrigerator wall. I could then pull the unit out so that I could inspect it for the problem.

I have had experience with failed icemakers of similar design in the past and there is a fundamental weakness in their design. The small electric motor that is used to activate the various steps involved in making the ice moves a set of copper finger contacts around a circular track. During this movement, these contacts frequently make and break the electrical circuit that turns on the small heating element that is used to lightly thaw the ice so that the extraction fingers can more easily sweep the latest batch of ice cubes from the ice making tray. This making and braking of contacts can occur several times a day. Over the lifespan of the icemaker, this making and braking of the contacts erodes the contact fingers and also builds up a residue of carbon that ultimately results in the loss of electrical contact between the fingers and the copper track that it normally rides upon. Once the electrical contact is lost, the icemaking process comes to a grinding halt.

Installing the replacement icemaker was a breeze. I just reversed the order of the previous steps and after reconnecting the power cable to the icemaker, it was back in the icemaking business. Of course there was a waiting period of approximately one hour before any ice was forthcoming since the new icemaker had to cold soak before it was ready to make the first batch. It has made ice consistenly since the installation.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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