MLR4410CXH Maytag Range - Overview
Sections of the MLR4410CXH
[Viewing 8 of 8]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
PartSelect #: PS2085070
Manufacturer #: 74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no ...
$55.29
In Stock
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
PartSelect #: PS16875974
Manufacturer #: W11665456
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work...
$23.60
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$21.45
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Spark Igniter
PartSelect #: PS11746068
Manufacturer #: WP8523793
Is your oven not cooling like it used to? You might need a new blower, a crucial component that circulates air to safeguard controls, wiring, and other parts from overheating. We understand how import...
$35.80
In Stock
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit
PartSelect #: PS358631
Manufacturer #: 4318047
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the ...
$47.40
In Stock
Range Screw
PartSelect #: PS11738704
Manufacturer #: WP179051
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
$7.47
In Stock
Door Seal
PartSelect #: PS11743947
Manufacturer #: WP7212P043-60
This door seal is used for ranges and ovens. The seal prevents hot air escaping from the oven to maintain a certain temperature when baking. The clips sticking out of the seal help secure it to the ra...
$53.20
On Order
Range Anti-Tip Bracket
PartSelect #: PS11741944
Manufacturer #: WP3801F656-51
Sold individually.
$8.55
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742292
Manufacturer #: WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
$8.55
In Stock
Surface Burner Head
PartSelect #: PS11744559
Manufacturer #: WP7504P109-60
Sold individually.
No Longer Available
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Common Symptoms of the MLR4410CXH
[Viewing 12 of 12]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Ice maker not making ice
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Oven not heating evenly
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Gas smell
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Leaking
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Door won’t close
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Oven is too hot
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My ... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My ... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Read less
Parts Used:
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James from Berwick, ME
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
249 of 284 people
found this instruction helpful.
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no water getting to ice maker
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.
I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.
I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai ... Read more r in 10 minutes.
I pulled the fridge away from the wall.
I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.
I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.
I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.
Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.
I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.
I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.
My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.
I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai ... Read more r in 10 minutes.
I pulled the fridge away from the wall.
I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.
I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.
I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.
Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.
I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.
I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.
My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
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Parts Used:
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Kevin from Boston, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
80 of 95 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Our oven would not heat up, smelled like gas.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this o
... Read more
ne. $40.00 beats $700.00
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Parts Used:
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Theresa from Yorkville, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
67 of 74 people
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