This genuine OEM oven probe is also known as an oven temperature sensor or range probe. This part is manufactured for a range, stove, or oven to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. The prob...
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly...
This part is found inside your oven. This oven rack comes in the color chrome and measures 24 inches in width and 16 inches in length. This is an extremely simple repair that requires no tools. The pa...
The Frigidaire light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven. No tools are necessary to replace this item. After unplugging the appliance, slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing...
This rear drawer glide, also known as a storage drawer glide, is used in ranges. This helps hold the front side of the storage drawer and allows the drawer to easily slide in and out of the range. If ...
This part is a single oven rack link arm. It is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. It connects the oven rack to the door bracket, to allow the rack to extend out when you open the oven door...
This is a six-inch radiant element with limiter. It works in conjunction with your stove top range. The purpose of this part is to heat up the cooking area that is located on top of the range, also kn...
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Mitchell
January 27, 2020
One burner stays on when the control knob is off and seems not to be able to adjust the temperature of the burner
For model number LGEF3045KFK
Hi Mitchell, thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause this issue specifically. You will need a multi meter to be able to test the parts. The first part you will want to check is your radiant element. It should be reading between 0 - 120 ohms to be working correctly. The other part to check would be your infinite (or surface burner) switch. When you remove that part from the appliance, connect each probe from your multi meter to the prongs and then turn the switch to an on position. If you get no continuity then the switch is the issue. Good luck with your repair.
First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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