LAT8426AAE Maytag Washer - Overview
Sections of the LAT8426AAE
[Viewing 8 of 8]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Belt Kit
PartSelect #: PS2005284
Manufacturer #: 12112425
This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both V-shaped. If your washer does not toss, spin, or drain water properly, this might be because one of these belts has worn or stret...
$32.63
In Stock
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
PartSelect #: PS2351899
Manufacturer #: 6-2095720
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. Th...
No Longer Available
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$21.45
In Stock
Dryer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$7.47
In Stock
Lid Switch
PartSelect #: PS11723153
Manufacturer #: W10820036
This washer/dryer lid or door switch kit serves as a critical safety component, designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the lid or door is open. It ensures that the washer does not fill ...
$22.52
In Stock
Timer Knob Base
PartSelect #: PS11739297
Manufacturer #: WP22001659
This timer knob is not quite three inches in diameter. It is all gray in color and it is made entirely of plastic. This has a D-Shaped Shaft.
$29.47
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11743008
Manufacturer #: WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This ...
$7.47
In Stock
Drain Pump
PartSelect #: PS11743017
Manufacturer #: WP6-2022030
This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
No Longer Available
Timer Knob Insert Cap
PartSelect #: PS11739300
Manufacturer #: WP22001664
This timer knob insert cap is just over two inches in diameter. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
$9.62
In Stock
Rubber Foot Pad
PartSelect #: PS11738859
Manufacturer #: WP210684
The leveling leg pad or foot pad fits over the leveling leg on your washing machine. The foot pad is designed to protect your floor and keep the washing machine level and in place. This foot pad is ju...
$11.77
In Stock
Washing Machine Lid Hinge Ball
PartSelect #: PS11738871
Manufacturer #: WP211726
This washing machine lid hinge ball is well under an inch in diameter. These hinge balls are sold separately, though two are required per lid. This lid hinge ball is made of plastic and is used for Ma...
$9.62
In Stock
Tub Bearing Kit
PartSelect #: PS2347235
Manufacturer #: 6-2040130
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is no...
$70.95
In Stock
Manuals & Care Guides for LAT8426AAE
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Cynthia
December 14, 2019
Thanks for your reply. So i must remove the agitator, yes? I watched the video on that. The filter is under there someplace?
For model number LAT8426AAE
Hello Cynthia and thanks for writing.
Yes, the filter PS2017415 is located under the agitator. You must remove the agitator first. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
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Cynthia
December 13, 2019
The lint filter is not cleaning itself. Cat hair and other debris do not go out with the water. Should i get at the filter to clean it? Other suggestions?Thank you!
cynthia
For model number LAT8426AAE
Hello Cynthia,
Thank you for your question. We suggest carefully cleaning the filter and using the washer again and check on it again, if the issue continues, we suggest getting in contact with Maytag for additional help. We hope this helps!
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Jessi
March 21, 2020
It won't fill but will start if i turn it to spin cycle. Hoses, inlet screen and water connections are not a problem. Water pressure is steady and screens/hoses are clean. So what now?
For model number LAT8426AAE
Hi Jessi,
Thank you for your question. If the washer will not fill with water, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the water inlet valves and the lid switch assemblies. You will need to test the parts with a multi-meter. Here is a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may use as a general reference on how to use one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. For more information on how to test these parts, click on the Appliance Repair link on our website and on the next page that comes up click on the washer icon. When the next page comes up, you will be provided with a symptoms list. Choose the "Not filling with water" symptom and the information will come up for you. There are some additional parts listed here that you may check if the other parts listed above test fine. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Cynthia
January 25, 2020
Hi, this is Cynthia again. I have cleaned the filters. Cat hair and other dirt are still not coming off clothes. There is also usually some stuck to the sides of the barrel. Help!
For model number LAT8426AAE
Hello and thank you for writing.
Try this:
Before you throw your laundry in the washing machine, run your clothes through a 10-minuted dryer cycle on tumble, with no heat. This softens the fabrics and loosens the pet hair, which will be caught by the dryer's lint trap. Then shake the clothes to get as many pet hairs out as possible, and toss them in the washer.
We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Kirstie
November 30, 2019
Wont drain or agitate
For model number LAT8426AAE
Hello Kirstie and thanks for writing.
the most likely part are the belts to cause both problems Part Number: PS2005284 is in the list of compatible items for your model. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
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Common Symptoms of the LAT8426AAE
[Viewing 14 of 14]Leaking
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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these parts
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Spins slowly
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No hot or cold water
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Spinning Issues
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Noisy
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Shaking and Moving
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Water Filling Issues
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Lid or door won’t close
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Won’t Start
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools ... Read more and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools ... Read more and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
Read less
Parts Used:
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Charles from Whitman, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
596 of 654 people
found this instruction helpful.
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water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa
... Read more
shers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
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Parts Used:
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douglas from bonita springs, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
529 of 558 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Washer Leaking and Spin Cycle stopping frequenly
* Remove front Panel
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to l ... Read more oosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to l ... Read more oosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Dan from Mason, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
212 of 226 people
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