This part is a door balance link kit, also sometimes known as door cable or door spring cable kit, that helps support the door as it opens and closes by connecting to the dishwasher door hinges. The k...
The mounting bracket is sold individually, without screws. This part secures the upper side of the dishwasher to the underside of the counter or cabinet to prevent the dishwasher from moving, shaking,...
This is a door seal, but you may also know it as a door gasket and it is a part for your dishwasher. It provides a leak proof seal between the tub and the door of your appliance. You will need to repl...
The rubber washer is a part which is specific to dishwashers and should not be substituted by a similar part. It works with the heating element to seal the receptacle opening where the heating element...
The tine row on your dishwasher rack divides the rack into columns to keep your kitchen items in place during the washing cycle. If you notice that one or more of the tines on your current tine row is...
$67.25
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Pulled dishwasher from under counter, attached link to spring, hooked spring back into frame/chassis, threaded link through pulleys, attached other end of link onto door, reinstalled dishwasher under counter. All's well. Note-I purchased an extra link anticipating that the other one will fail. They're cheap enough.
Rather than remove the pump assembly - as an earlier post had done - I pulled the entire dishwasher out and laid it down on the floor. This allowed easy, direct access to the motor (that was the hard, messy part). From this point it was easy. Unplug the wiring, remove the retaining bolt, rotate the motor off the mounting brackets and pull
... Read more it out. Then put the new one in. That was the easy part (about 15 minutes). The entire job took 2-and-a-half hours, most of which was taken in disconnecting, cleaning up and reconnecting the dishwasher. It's much quieter now.
I dropped the upper rack to its lowest position. I pulled the upper water channel down from the spring clip [on the top of the washer] to get access to the hole on the top of the front end of the channel. The front end of the channel only drops an inch or two. I put the new upper wash arm pivot [larger of the two small pieces]
... Read morethrough the new upper washer arm from the bottom, placed the assembly up into the hole on the under side of the upper water channel, and snapped in the new keeper [smaller piece] through the hole in the top of the upper washer arm. Finally, I snapped the upper water channel back into its spring clip. It was not even necessary to remove the racks. There were no instructions or diagrams with the new parts, so it took me a few minutes to be sure which of the two small parts goes in from the bottom and which goes in from the top. Otherwise, I could have installed the new washer arm in one or two minutes.
