Models
>
KSSS36FMX03
KSSS36FMX03 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the KSSS36FMX03
[Viewing 13 of 13]
Manuals & Care Guides for KSSS36FMX03
Click to downloadKeep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
EveryDrop Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS11722132
Manufacturer #: EDR5RXD1
This EveryDrop Filter5 is certified to reduce the most contaminants with Triple Filtration Technology. Now, you and your family can enjoy the enriching benefits of cleaner, freshly filtered ice & wate...
$85.22
In Stock
Icemaker Control Assembly
PartSelect #: PS2341896
Manufacturer #: W10190935
The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns th...
$118.52
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.48
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.59
In Stock
Cap, Water Filter (Black)
PartSelect #: PS11739084
Manufacturer #: WP2186494B
This black water filter cap is located near the bottom kickplate.
$41.83
In Stock
Water Fill Cup and Bearing
PartSelect #: PS11743318
Manufacturer #: WP628356
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, ...
$40.40
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742721
Manufacturer #: WP488729
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
$7.91
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS11738973
Manufacturer #: WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$37.20
In Stock
Ice Mold
PartSelect #: PS11749915
Manufacturer #: WPW10190929
This is an ice maker mold and heater assembly for a refrigerator ice maker. It is used with modular style icemakers and is located in the freezer section of the refrigerator. This ice mold is flake re...
$165.75
On Order
Icemaker Motor Kit
PartSelect #: PS733947
Manufacturer #: 8201515
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
$116.11
In Stock
Single Shelf Stud
PartSelect #: PS11739228
Manufacturer #: WP2196483
This part screws into the side of the wall in your fresh food compartment and supports a shelf.
$7.06
In Stock
Cycling thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11743313
Manufacturer #: WP627985
The ice maker thermostat, also known as the cycling thermostat, controls and regulates the ice maker ejection cycle by monitoring the temperature inside the freezer to determine when to release the ic...
$62.09
In Stock
Questions And Answers for KSSS36FMX03
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
Common Symptoms of the KSSS36FMX03
[Viewing 20 of 20]Ice maker not making ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Light not working
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Fridge too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Leaking
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Freezer not defrosting
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Ice maker won’t dispense ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Noisy
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Not dispensing water
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Freezer section too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Fridge and Freezer are too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Fridge too cold
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Frost buildup
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Freezer too cold
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Fridge runs too long
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Ice maker dispenses too much ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Ice maker dispenses too little ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Touchpad does not respond
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Won’t start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
No ice
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
Parts Used:
-
Daniel from Suwanee, GA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
557 of 665 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Change ice/water filter
It was really easy. Took off grill at bottom of refrigerator, turned existing filter to get it out and then inserted the new one.
Parts Used:
-
Nora from Bethesda, MD
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
304 of 399 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
154 of 178 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!