This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
Fresh Flow Produce Preserver is made for your refrigerator to help keep produce fresh for longer by absorbing the chemical, ethylene, that causes your fruits and vegetables to ripen quicker. Your prod...
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
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John
December 12, 2019
I'm looking for the front panel for the top drawer of the three (smallest drawer of the three).Front panel about 6" high and drawer itself is about 5" high.
thank you
For model number KSC24C8EYY02
Hello John, thank you for writing. Sadly, it is not sold separate from the drawer itself, Snack Pan part number PS11756119. Good luck with your repair!
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Doan
February 14, 2020
Ice on ice maker but not ejecting cubes
For model number KSC24C8EYY02
Hi Doan,
Thank you for your question. If you find ice inside the ice mold, it means your ice maker is receiving water and the problem likely isn't with the water supply. Instead, it's most likely a mechanical or electrical problem. When moving things around in the freezer, it's not uncommon to accidentally nudge the control arm into the off position, which halts production of ice. This is an easy fix. Locate the metal control arm and move it to the down or on position. If the control arm is in the on (down) position and the mold is filled with ice, the problem likely lies with the motor, gearbox or electrical connection. Start by making sure all electrical connections are properly seated. Slide the refrigerator out from the wall, turn off the water supply valve and disconnect it from power. Locate the quick release plug on the back wall inside the freezer. Unplug the connection it and reconnect it to ensure it's fully connected. Manually remove any remaining ice from the mold by adding some water and letting it sit for a minute. The ice will begin to melt and should be easier to remove. Restore power to the refrigerator and lift the control arm to the off position. Lower the control arm back down and wait for approximately 10 seconds for the solenoid to engage and fill the mold with water. Wait three to four hours for the ice to freeze and see if the ice now ejects. If not, it's likely that you will need to replace the motor or gearbox. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Paul
June 10, 2022
When I hold the lock button for 3 seconds to start the refrigerator, it brinks 3 times and never start. How do I start it!
For model number KSC24C8EYY02
Hello Paul, Thank you for the question. For use and care information we suggest consulting the Owners Manual as we just carry parts here. We have provided a link to the manual. We hope this helps!
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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