The EDR1RXD1 water filter provides clean, fresh-tasting water by reducing contaminants such as lead, chlorine, and particulates. Designed for easy installation, this filter ensures your refrigerator water and ice are safe and refreshing with every use
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model number to see if this filter is right for your fridge. Location for storage of the air filter may vary from model to model, but generally, ...Read moreyou will find a small cover on the back-middle-top of your fridge, which can be popped off to reveal the air filter, which can be easily changed out from there. This part does not come sold with the indicator; it is the filter only. Sold individually.
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty ...Read morethe compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator doe...Read mores not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this p...Read moreart is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Fresh Flow Produce Preserver is made for your refrigerator to help keep produce fresh for longer by absorbing the chemical, ethylene, that causes your fruits and vegetables to ripen quicker. Your produce could be fresh for up to 4 days longer. It includes 2 packs of preserver and a status indicator strip. Replace every 6 months.
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint...Read more is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate the cold air into the refrigerator and freezer sections. The fan blade is white in color and made from plastic. This is a genuine OEM part...Read more. Please be sure to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before starting your repair.
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ice bucket. If the seal is broken, water and condensation can get in, causing the ice maker to fail. To replace the seal, first remove the ice...Read more bucket from your freezer. Then remove the two screws on the drive shaft holder, and use a pair of pliers to remove the drive shaft. At this point you can remove the seal from the drive shaft. Be sure to clean the area that the seal sits in before you reinstall the drive shaft. This part is white in color and is about an inch in diameter. The seal is sold individually.
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John - For model number KSC24C8EYY02
December 12, 2019
I'm looking for the front panel for the top drawer of the three (smallest drawer of the three).Front panel about 6" high and drawer itself is about 5" high.
thank you
Hello John, thank you for writing. Sadly, it is not sold separate from the drawer itself, Snack Pan part number PS11756119. Good luck with your repair!
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Doan - For model number KSC24C8EYY02
February 14, 2020
Ice on ice maker but not ejecting cubes
Hi Doan,
Thank you for your question. If you find ice inside the ice mold, it means your ice maker is receiving water and the problem likely isn't with the water supply. Instead, it's most likely a mechanical or electrical problem. When moving things around in the freezer, it's not uncommon to accidentally nudge the control arm into the off position, which halts production of ice. This is an easy fix. Locate the metal control arm and move it to the down or on position. If the control arm is in the on (down) position and the mold is filled with ice, the problem likely lies with the motor, gearbox or electrical connection. Start by making sure all electrical connections are properly seated. Slide the refrigerator out from the wall, turn off the water supply valve and disconnect it from power. Locate the quick release plug on the back wall inside the freezer. Unplug the connection it and reconnect it to ensure it's fully connected. Manually remove any remaining ice from the mold by adding some water and letting it sit for a minute. The ice will begin to melt and should be easier to remove. Restore power to the refrigerator and lift the control arm to the off position. Lower the control arm back down and wait for approximately 10 seconds for the solenoid to engage and fill the mold with water. Wait three to four hours for the ice to freeze and see if the ice now ejects. If not, it's likely that you will need to replace the motor or gearbox. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Paul - For model number KSC24C8EYY02
June 10, 2022
When I hold the lock button for 3 seconds to start the refrigerator, it brinks 3 times and never start. How do I start it!
Hello Paul, Thank you for the question. For use and care information we suggest consulting the Owners Manual as we just carry parts here. We have provided a link to the manual. We hope this helps!
i have a frigidaire refrigerator (ksc24c8eyy02 ) Not cooling or freezing at all and i have watched videos showing it could be the relay. i would like to know what else might i need to check, to fix this issue.
Hi Gigi, thank you for contacting us. Based on our research, the issue is most probably with the compressor start relay, part number PS11750123. It attaches to the compressor and helps start the compressor motor. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
Hello Lenn, thank you for your inquiry. The crisper drawer you are looking for is part number PS11756019. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you need help placing an order!
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
441 of 556 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
garth from forest lake, MN
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read moret's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
A Bit Difficult
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
136 of 255 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Clint from Rayville, MO
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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