KMBP107ESS20 KitchenAid Microwave - Overview
Sections of the KMBP107ESS20
[Viewing 1 of 1]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$11.50
In Stock
GRILL SUPPORT
PartSelect #: PS17629632
Manufacturer #: W11724411
This part is used to hold up the heating element.
$40.12
In Stock
Spray Paint - 12 oz. - White
PartSelect #: PS347819
Manufacturer #: 350930
Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to...
$36.00
In Stock
Halogen Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11765655
Manufacturer #: W10886919
This part is the replacement halogen light bulb for your range. The bulb is 10 watts and 12 volts. The halogen lamp lights up the inside of the oven you can see the cooktop more effectively in darknes...
$26.20
In Stock
Touch-up Paint - Black
PartSelect #: PS385141
Manufacturer #: 72032
This authentic OEM black touch-up paint is specifically designed for repairing minor scratches, chips, or blemishes on your kitchen appliances. The bottle contains 16ml or 0.6oz of black paint and has...
$17.80
In Stock
Motor Coupling
PartSelect #: PS12348608
Manufacturer #: W11179756
Enhance the efficiency of your microwave with this genuine OEM turntable motor coupler from Whirlpool. This unique component acts as a connector between the turntable motor and the tray, playing a cru...
$26.73
In Stock
TRAY-COOK
PartSelect #: PS16543436
Manufacturer #: W11512489
This enamel-coated baking tray is made for convection microwaves and helps with baking, roasting, and broiling. It replaces a worn or damaged tray and restores a clean, sturdy surface for cooking. As ...
$75.43
In Stock
Spray Paint - Superior Black
PartSelect #: PS334404
Manufacturer #: 285006
This is a 12oz (about 355 ml) can of black spray paint that is compatible with a variety of different home appliances and is used to cover and conceal any visible scuffs, scratches or chips. This can ...
$56.05
In Stock
Plate
PartSelect #: PS11728019
Manufacturer #: W10839793
Introducing a genuine Whirlpool item, the W10839793 Nameplate. Known for its durability and seamless design, this nameplate perfectly aligns with the Whirlpool's reputation for quality and longevity. ...
$42.18
In Stock
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Common Symptoms of the KMBP107ESS20
[Viewing 1 of 1]Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The ceramic bracket holding the conventional heating element at the top of the microwave oven broke for the second time
Part No. PS11766760
Ignore the other repair comments on this page!!! The new replacement part can no longer be put into place as simply as the original bracket. This is a r3eplacement part with a modified design. Significant parts of the microwave (MW) must be dismantled in order to provide access for insertion of the new part. Th ... Read more is is confirmed by notes at other web sites which provide this part. My approach also required cutting/drilling holes into sheet metal panels.
Kitchenaid/Whirlpool must have realized that the original part is inherently weak at the point at which it is supported at the ceiling of the MW. The replacement part is a good option from a strength standpoint, but a horrible one for ease of insertion. The original is a single ceramic piece. The replacement part includes a metal clip which holds the top stem of the ceramic bracket from the top ("roof") side of the MW. Getting at the top of the MW cavity is the difficult part. One needs to pull the entire built in oven from its location and remove at least the control panel from the front of the unit.
It took me 3-4 hours one day to see how to install the replacement part. I failed since I unexpectedly found that there are two sheet metal panels above the MW cavity which need to be removed in order to access the slot through which the bracket stem must be inserted. Maybe somebody else can think of a way to remove the metal panels, but I could not do it so I put the MW back together again.
After this failure I considered trying to repair the original part again (this was the second time it had broken). The first repair broke when the conventional heating element was used in the MW. This option might again be an interim solution so I went back to trying to install the new replacement part.
This time it took over 3 hours to remove the control panel, several wiring units, a transformer, and several side and top sheet metal panels. Each removal step was preceded with a photograph of the item to be removed so that everything could be put back as they were originally located. After all of this work it was determined that the MW would have to virtually be totally dismantled in order to access the bracket slot at the top of the MW cavity. There were simply too many items on top of the sheet metal panels to allow for bending the panels up to access the necessary slot in the oven ceiling.
Fortunately, my wife asked why I didn't consider drilling through the existing sheet metal panels at the top of the MW. Had she suggested that earlier in the dismantling, it would have saved hours of work.
After reassembling the side panels I drilled access holes through the two sheet metal panels over the top of the MW oven. Certainly one needs to be careful in measuring the location for such holes. The holes were to be rectangular, developed by drilling multiple holes around the perimeters of the final "holes." The two sheet metal panels are about 3/4" apart and the lower panel is about 3/4" above the MW oven cavity. After drilling out the holes (about 1/2" x 1") I successfully found the desired slot in the oven ceiling. Then the drill cuttings needed to be cleaned out with a vacuum cleaner - including inside the MW oven.
Inserting the replacement part was not trivial. One needs to hold the ceramic part in the oven, with the heating element in its proper place on the bracket, and then simultaneously place the metal clip onto the stem which has been inserted through the slot at the top of the MW oven. Long tweezers are handy for putting the clip into place. Then the fun begins. Somehow the metal clip must be pushed down onto the ceramic stem. This is a trial and error task with various long blunt tools used to try and push the clip down while not pushing it off to the side. Somehow I got the clip onto the stem and the part was finally in place.
Another hour (+) to re-assemble the MW and push the oven back into the cabinet and the job was finally done.
btw, the only reason it was relatively easy to pull the oven out of the cabinet (and push it back in) was that we have two office chairs at home (without arms) which come up to about the right height for having the oven sit on the chairs. Adding some 2x4's on the seats of the chairs brought it to exactly the right height. The wheels on the chairs also helped. Given the weight of the oven, removing and replacing the oven unit is not a trivial task and one needs to be careful at all times.
There were several observations I made about the new replacement part which also "froze me in my tracks" early in this project. That is why I kept thinking of ways in which to repair the original part more effectively than I had done previously. The problem is that the ceramic section of the replacement part is not the same size as the original. It holds the heating element higher against the ceiling of the microwave and the horizontal section which holds the heating element is shor
Ignore the other repair comments on this page!!! The new replacement part can no longer be put into place as simply as the original bracket. This is a r3eplacement part with a modified design. Significant parts of the microwave (MW) must be dismantled in order to provide access for insertion of the new part. Th ... Read more is is confirmed by notes at other web sites which provide this part. My approach also required cutting/drilling holes into sheet metal panels.
Kitchenaid/Whirlpool must have realized that the original part is inherently weak at the point at which it is supported at the ceiling of the MW. The replacement part is a good option from a strength standpoint, but a horrible one for ease of insertion. The original is a single ceramic piece. The replacement part includes a metal clip which holds the top stem of the ceramic bracket from the top ("roof") side of the MW. Getting at the top of the MW cavity is the difficult part. One needs to pull the entire built in oven from its location and remove at least the control panel from the front of the unit.
It took me 3-4 hours one day to see how to install the replacement part. I failed since I unexpectedly found that there are two sheet metal panels above the MW cavity which need to be removed in order to access the slot through which the bracket stem must be inserted. Maybe somebody else can think of a way to remove the metal panels, but I could not do it so I put the MW back together again.
After this failure I considered trying to repair the original part again (this was the second time it had broken). The first repair broke when the conventional heating element was used in the MW. This option might again be an interim solution so I went back to trying to install the new replacement part.
This time it took over 3 hours to remove the control panel, several wiring units, a transformer, and several side and top sheet metal panels. Each removal step was preceded with a photograph of the item to be removed so that everything could be put back as they were originally located. After all of this work it was determined that the MW would have to virtually be totally dismantled in order to access the bracket slot at the top of the MW cavity. There were simply too many items on top of the sheet metal panels to allow for bending the panels up to access the necessary slot in the oven ceiling.
Fortunately, my wife asked why I didn't consider drilling through the existing sheet metal panels at the top of the MW. Had she suggested that earlier in the dismantling, it would have saved hours of work.
After reassembling the side panels I drilled access holes through the two sheet metal panels over the top of the MW oven. Certainly one needs to be careful in measuring the location for such holes. The holes were to be rectangular, developed by drilling multiple holes around the perimeters of the final "holes." The two sheet metal panels are about 3/4" apart and the lower panel is about 3/4" above the MW oven cavity. After drilling out the holes (about 1/2" x 1") I successfully found the desired slot in the oven ceiling. Then the drill cuttings needed to be cleaned out with a vacuum cleaner - including inside the MW oven.
Inserting the replacement part was not trivial. One needs to hold the ceramic part in the oven, with the heating element in its proper place on the bracket, and then simultaneously place the metal clip onto the stem which has been inserted through the slot at the top of the MW oven. Long tweezers are handy for putting the clip into place. Then the fun begins. Somehow the metal clip must be pushed down onto the ceramic stem. This is a trial and error task with various long blunt tools used to try and push the clip down while not pushing it off to the side. Somehow I got the clip onto the stem and the part was finally in place.
Another hour (+) to re-assemble the MW and push the oven back into the cabinet and the job was finally done.
btw, the only reason it was relatively easy to pull the oven out of the cabinet (and push it back in) was that we have two office chairs at home (without arms) which come up to about the right height for having the oven sit on the chairs. Adding some 2x4's on the seats of the chairs brought it to exactly the right height. The wheels on the chairs also helped. Given the weight of the oven, removing and replacing the oven unit is not a trivial task and one needs to be careful at all times.
There were several observations I made about the new replacement part which also "froze me in my tracks" early in this project. That is why I kept thinking of ways in which to repair the original part more effectively than I had done previously. The problem is that the ceramic section of the replacement part is not the same size as the original. It holds the heating element higher against the ceiling of the microwave and the horizontal section which holds the heating element is shor
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Peet from LAKE OSWEGO, OR
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
71 of 77 people
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Ceramic part holding up the heating element fell and broke.
Easiest repair I've made in years. Didn't even need a tool.
One end slides into a hole in the ceiling of the microwave/convection over, move the heating element into place and turn the mounting bracket and you're done.
One end slides into a hole in the ceiling of the microwave/convection over, move the heating element into place and turn the mounting bracket and you're done.
Parts Used:
-
Jerry from Woodinville, WA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
30 of 40 people
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Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
Parts Used:
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
79 of 202 people
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