Parts That Fix KitchenAid Refrigerator KFCS22EVMS00 Leaking
Leaking is a commonly reported symptom for the KFCS22EVMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator, and we have put together a full guide
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on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your KFCS22EVMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator that will fix Leaking.
We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
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Leaking is a commonly reported symptom for the KFCS22EVMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this.
This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your KFCS22EVMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator that will fix Leaking.
We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 43% of time
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
$
92.97
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2121513
Manufacturer Part Number D7824706Q
Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Replacement Ice Maker
Customer Repair Stories
Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on
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e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ... Read more ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ... Read more ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
815 of 913 people
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Fixes Symptom 25% of time
This is a dual water inlet valve for your refrigerator/freezer. The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line into the water valve. The liquid will then be sent to the compact icemaker mold and to the water line. You will need to replace this part if you are experiencing leaking, or your appliance is not properly dispensing water or ice. This model is blue/green in color and is roughly 3 inches wide, 5 inches long, and 4 inches thick.
$
134.52
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743697
Manufacturer Part Number WP67006531
Customer Repair Stories
Water leaking from Water Inlet Valve
Ok, pretty easy repair when the parts are correct (first part was faulty, parts select quickly sent me a new one)
First is removal, these tubes are in there very tight, they can be pulled out but weaken the lines and it is not likely to work without severly stretching the line to the point of breakage, if you have to cut them d ... Read more o so carefully and take off as little tubing as possible as you need the length to feed from top to bottom.
Once you have cut all the lines, or pulled them out (I was able to get 2 out without cutting) then make sure the edges are smooth, attach the inlet valve to the plate and just push them tightly into the new valve making sure you route the lines correctly.
Turn everything on and run the water line to see if it works. If no leaks, screw it back to the refrigerator and you are good to go. Takes maybe 20 minutes at most.
First is removal, these tubes are in there very tight, they can be pulled out but weaken the lines and it is not likely to work without severly stretching the line to the point of breakage, if you have to cut them d ... Read more o so carefully and take off as little tubing as possible as you need the length to feed from top to bottom.
Once you have cut all the lines, or pulled them out (I was able to get 2 out without cutting) then make sure the edges are smooth, attach the inlet valve to the plate and just push them tightly into the new valve making sure you route the lines correctly.
Turn everything on and run the water line to see if it works. If no leaks, screw it back to the refrigerator and you are good to go. Takes maybe 20 minutes at most.
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Brian from Easton, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
24 of 29 people
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Refrigerator sat in storage in sub zero weather, water in Dual Water Inlet Valve froze, cracking valve.
This is the 2nd time I have used PartSelect, and this experience was as pleasant as the 1st. The exploded-view diagrams make parts identification very easy; and the photo of the actual part is such a great idea, it allows you to verify what you need. I also got my part (cross country, in 3 days)
Repair Procedure: Shut off water ... Read more supply. It may be easier to work if you disconnect the water supply tube, but it is not required. On the backside of the refrigerator, remove the bottom, black plastic protection panel. You will need a nut driver or battery-powered screw driver with a 3/8" socket tip on it. Next, remove the black metal panel that holds the water inlet valve in place. Remove screws with a nut driver. 1st remove the two flat-pin power connectors. (They are different sizes and color-coded, so there is no room for making a re-hookup mistake). Then proceed to remove the hoses. The hoses are pressure-lock tubing, so push the plastic disk in or down where the tube goes into the main body of the valve. Do this for all three hoses (tubes). Switch water valves and reverse the procedure. **Be certain that the tubes are pushed back in as far as they can go; if you do not re-seat the tubes, the pressure from the water going back in the valve, will blow the tubes right out the valve (ask me how I know this!). Once reassembled, turn the water back on slowly. Make sure you turn the water supply valve all the way open, it seats itself internally when you do and is less prone to drip leaks. That's it! (As a former kitchen remodeler, I find this a great DIY project).
Repair Procedure: Shut off water ... Read more supply. It may be easier to work if you disconnect the water supply tube, but it is not required. On the backside of the refrigerator, remove the bottom, black plastic protection panel. You will need a nut driver or battery-powered screw driver with a 3/8" socket tip on it. Next, remove the black metal panel that holds the water inlet valve in place. Remove screws with a nut driver. 1st remove the two flat-pin power connectors. (They are different sizes and color-coded, so there is no room for making a re-hookup mistake). Then proceed to remove the hoses. The hoses are pressure-lock tubing, so push the plastic disk in or down where the tube goes into the main body of the valve. Do this for all three hoses (tubes). Switch water valves and reverse the procedure. **Be certain that the tubes are pushed back in as far as they can go; if you do not re-seat the tubes, the pressure from the water going back in the valve, will blow the tubes right out the valve (ask me how I know this!). Once reassembled, turn the water back on slowly. Make sure you turn the water supply valve all the way open, it seats itself internally when you do and is less prone to drip leaks. That's it! (As a former kitchen remodeler, I find this a great DIY project).
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JIM from Greeley, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
110 of 120 people
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Fixes Symptom 7% of time
Sold Individually. - * Part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original.
$
23.05
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11740187
Manufacturer Part Number WP2300868
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Refrigerator Water Tube Connector/Union 5/16 To 5/16
Customer Repair Stories
Leaking water tube connector/union
Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and
... Read more
replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!
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Roderick from NEWTOWN, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
9 of 11 people
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Had to replace a hose connector at the base of my refrig/frreezer
Perhaps a helpful hint:
When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.
LG
When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.
LG
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Leo from Salem, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
46 of 80 people
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Fixes Symptom 5% of time
This part supplies water to refrigerator components that require water, such as the ice maker and water dispenser. If you notice a leak coming from your refrigerator, the plastic tubing that feeds your water and ice dispenser might need to be replaced. This part is made of clear plastic and is 1/4 inch thick, and 8 1/2 feet long. Make sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator and shut off the water supply prior to installing this part. Safely store any perishable food items that could deteriorate while the power to the refrigerator is disconnected. Work gloves are recommended to protect your hands during this installation.
$
16.75
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11747816
Manufacturer Part Number WPB5705307
Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Refrigerator Plastic Tubing
Customer Repair Stories
Ice from icemaker taste metallic; new ice maker directly from box
I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.
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Samuel from ALEXANDRIA, VA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
2 of 3 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This is an ice maker mold and heater assembly for a refrigerator ice maker. It is used with modular style icemakers and is located in the freezer section of the refrigerator. This ice mold is flake resistant which prevents the coating on the mold from flaking into the ice cubes when the ice mold begins to wear. The ice mold forms the ice cubes and the heater allows the ice cubes to fall from the ice mold to drop them into the ice bucket. You will need to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator to access the mold and heater assembly. This is a genuine replacement part.
$
158.51
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11749915
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10190929
Replacing your Kenmore Refrigerator Refrigerator Ice Mold
Customer Repair Stories
The black plastic or teflon coating on the ice mold was coming off in flakes and freezing in the ice cubes
I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I
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put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.
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Roger from Sunnyvale, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
32 of 42 people
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Ice maker mold was cracked and leaking water into the bin which then froze all the cubes together.
I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts avai
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lable for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.
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George from Cottage Grove, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
28 of 30 people
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time
This is a speed lamp clip, and may also be known as the water line spring clamp. It is used in conjunction with your refrigerator. If you have a leak at your fill tub, this part may be the reason. The function of this clip is to keep the fill tube and the water line connected. This will allow water to flow freely without leakage into your water/ice dispensers. This part is quite small, with less than a half-inch in outer diameter. The clip is an off-black, almost olive color, and is rounded.
$
11.50
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11747913
Manufacturer Part Number WPM0114003
Fixes Symptom 3% of time
This fill tube elbow is almost eleven inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic. It is used with the icemakers of some refrigerators.
$
59.11
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12727858
Manufacturer Part Number W11176463
Customer Repair Stories
Old fill tube was blocked
Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.
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David from VESTAL, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
3 of 3 people
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The water supply line to the ice maker kept popping off after I replaced the water filter because an "ice plug" had formed in the fill tube, unbeknownst to me.
1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you ca ... Read more n gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you ca ... Read more n gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
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Michael from TAKOMA PARK, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 5 people
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time
This water filter (Whirlpool EveryDrop Refrigerator Water Filter, Single Turn Filter) purifies water going to the water dispenser and sometimes the icemaker as well. This part should be replaced if it is causing reduced water flow or just replaced periodically per the owner manual. Replacing this water filter may fix a noisy or leaking fridge, a fridge that is not dispensing water (or reduced flow rate), and an ice maker that is not making ice at all, or not making enough ice. This filter is white, sold individually and measures 8 inches by 3 inches in diameter. This water filter has been updated by the manufacturer. It may appear different but will still function the same. It is sold individually.
$
82.50
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11722130
Manufacturer Part Number EDR4RXD1
Replacing your Maytag Refrigerator Refrigerator Water Filter
Customer Repair Stories
Removing the existing filter by rotating as directed and then dislodging from 'docking' station proved difficult. Turns out, the old filter is under a bit of vacuum pressure and getting the unit to separate or release was a challenge.
I removed the drop-down outer housing by gently prying the sides of the two pivot pins at the rear. This gave me move 'room' to grip and slightly rotate then pull the old filter forward and away from the tight suction connection. I was concerned that I would be too forceful for the plastic assemblies and would break something; deliberate
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motions and a steady thought process on the problem helped disengage the darned old filter!
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Jake from Novato, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
214 of 332 people
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light on to order water filter
Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.
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Douglas from Byron, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
914 of 1047 people
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
Sold individually.
$
9.40
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11747809
Manufacturer Part Number WPA3223101
Customer Repair Stories
Water line feeding ice maker was not producing ice
Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.
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Daniel from SAINT ALBANS, VT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
1 person
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10 RESERVOIR
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
$
73.83
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12723877
Manufacturer Part Number W11361728
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns the timing cams and the ejector blades. It controls most of the basic parts and functions such as the heater, water inlet valve, the cube size, and cube ejection. If your ice maker control is broken it can no longer properly control the ice maker functions. It may not produce any ice, make small ice cubes, or have intermittent operation. This can occur due to normal wear and tear. The icemaker control assembly is attached to the ice maker mold, and is under the white cover. Test the icemaker control assembly by using a multimeter. If this reveals the assembly to be defective, you will need to replace this part. It is approximately 4.25 inches square, beige, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features one icemaker control assembly, including the control module and the motor.
$
69.31
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2341896
Manufacturer Part Number W10190935
Replacing your Kenmore Refrigerator Icemaker Control Assembly
Customer Repair Stories
Ice Maker stopped working
With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.
Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)
However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.
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/>
Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.
Screwed in the new unit.
Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.
1 hour later ice was falling!
Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)
However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.
Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.
Screwed in the new unit.
Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.
1 hour later ice was falling!
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Robert from Port Washington, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
135 of 154 people
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No ice
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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Daniel from Suwanee, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
567 of 688 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This water filter bypass cap, also known as a water filter bypass plug, is an authentic OEM part that replaces the regular water filter cartridge in refrigerators. It allows water to flow freely through the dispensing system when the filter is not present. The bypass can fail if it becomes clogged, cracked, or falls out of alignment. A faulty filter bypass will result in leaking, poor ice production, and difficulties dispensing water. You can find the filter bypass inside the refrigerator, near the water filter housing. Disconnect the water supply lines and remove the faulty bypass. Insert the new bypass in its place and reconnect the water supply lines.
$
47.33
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12731165
Manufacturer Part Number W11395888
Replacing your Maytag Refrigerator Refrigerator Water Filter Bypass
Customer Repair Stories
no water when under sink water filter installed
I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked
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Emi from Arlington, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
11 of 19 people
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Remove the water filter to install the bypass cap
Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.
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Phil from GREENFIELD, IN
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
11 of 14 people
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13 PAN- DRAIN
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
$
175.29
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738548
Manufacturer Part Number WP12579803
Customer Repair Stories
Drain pan failed and had many leaks
Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is ve
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ry easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.
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Malcolm from Parrish, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This black freezer door gasket is a high-quality replacement component designed to restore the seal integrity of select refrigerator models. Made from durable, flexible rubber, it forms a tight seal around the freezer door to prevent cold air from escaping and warm air from entering. This helps maintain consistent internal temperatures, reduces frost buildup, and prevents water leaks. Compatible with various models from Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and other brands, it is an ideal solution for issues such as poor door closure, air leaks, or excessive frost. Installation may require careful alignment to ensure a proper seal; checking model compatibility before purchase is recommended.
$
145.35
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS3651266
Manufacturer Part Number W10436252
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Freezer Door Gasket - Black
Customer Repair Stories
Replacing leaking freezer door gasket
When the gasket is delivered it will be folded. You will need to unfold it and leave it on a flat surface for several days. Keep it as square as possible, and heat the kinked portions with a hair dryer on high heat and slow fan while molding kinked portions with your hands for 30 to 60 seconds at a time. Do that 2-3 times per day. Whe
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n it looks 90% uniform with the non kinked portions, you can install it. Installation takes less than 10 minutes. Clean the metal edge of the freezer well. I recommend taking the door annd frame off (This is remarkably easy. THe door and frame pretty much lifts up and out after you hold the rail clips inward) because the lower edge is so close to the floor. The just pulll off the old gasket. There are no screws or clips. Starting in any corner, press new gasket into place. Go around the perimeter several times to make sure it is pushed in fully and evenly. Then reinstall the door and frame.
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Joseph from OCEAN SPRINGS, MS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Frost on the edges of the freezer and all around the freezer door
I was getting small sections of ice and a snow like build - up around the freezer door. I thought that the door was not sealing tight enough and that the cold air was leaking out. The original door gasket appeared to not have any flexibility anymore and was getting hard. I ordered a new door gasket from PartsSelect. When the gasket arrive
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d it was in a large enough box and that saved me some time as the gasket was not "crushed" to the point where there were a lot of kinks in the gasket. I used a hair dryer on low to warm the gasket and stretch it out some. The freezer door required me loosening four small screws and lifting the door off. I placed the door on an old blanket so not to scratch the finish. It was easy to remove the old gasket and after doing so I cleaned the track where the new gasket was to go with isopropyl alcohol, Once cleaned, I placed the gasket over the channel in the door where the old gasket had been and started installing the new gasket. I started at the corners and you can feel the gasket snap into place. Once the four corners were done I started at the top and installed the gasket the rest of the way. You can feel it snap into place. as you work your way around the gasket channel. Once the gasket was in place I placed the door on the four small grooves where the door had been and tightened up the screws. I made sure that no white from the inside of the freezer door was showing after the gasket was in place and that the gasket had some "spring" to it. The door was back on, the gasket was tight and it appeared to be a good seal. Around 12 hours later I checked the freezer and there was no more ice or "snow" on the edges of the freezer. While the gasket was not inexpensive, it is a genuine OEM piece, and the gasket is a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator!
I hope this was helpful...
I hope this was helpful...
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Robert from EVERETT, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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