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JS998SKS General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for JS998SKS

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REAR SUPPORT – Part Number: WB02X33180
$16.05
In Stock
REAR SUPPORT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(23)
Part #WB02X33180
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawer and provides stable support by securing the rear side in place. This part includes the necessary mounting screw for installation and is sold individually. It’s a simple yet essential component for maintaining smooth drawer operation and proper alignment.
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$123.58
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$25.26
In Stock
Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
Range Screw – Part Number: WB1K5062
$16.05
Special Order
Range Screw
Part #WB1K5062
Diode – Part Number: WB27X10597
$59.47
In Stock
Diode
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB27X10597
This part allows power to go one way only.
Halogen Bulb Kit – Part Number: WB49X29679
$61.40
On Order
Halogen Bulb Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #WB49X29679
This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
Window Pack Assembly – Part Number: WB56X22160
$311.77
In Stock
Window Pack Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(24)
Part #WB56X22160
This window pack assembly, also known as inner door glass, is supplied directly by the manufacturer for use in range ovens. It has measurements of approximately 22 inches by 14 inches. The inner door glass is situated between the outer door panel and the oven cavity. It acts as a barrier between the heat generated by the oven and the external environment. This provides insulation and protection while allowing users to easily view the oven cavity. It is made of tempered glass and is resistant to high temperatures and thermal shock. If the inner door glass becomes damaged or cracked, heat will escape from the oven, you may be unable to see the contents of the oven and the risk of injury will be increased.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$43.18
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures 15-1/2 inches wide by 13 inches deep and the pan is about 17 inches wide by 13 inches deep. No tools are required to replace this item, simply pull out the lower drawer of your range, pull down the front of the drawer, slide the pan out and slide the new one into place. This is a genuine part sourced right from the manufacturer.
Front Drawer Support – Part Number: WB48T10013
$16.05
In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WB1M1
$13.92
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WB1M1
Sold Individually.
Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
$85.36
In Stock
Dual Burner Control Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB24T10063
This infinite control switch is designed to regulate the heat output of dual surface burners on ranges and cooktops. It manages both the inner and outer heating coils of dual-element burners by cycling power on and off, allowing precise temperature control across various settings. Compatible with a wide range of models from brands such as GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore, Monogram, and Café, this switch ensures consistent performance and safe operation. Common signs of a faulty switch include inconsistent heating, burners remaining at full heat regardless of the setting, or the control knob failing to respond. Installation involves disconnecting power, removing the cooktop panel, and replacing the switch behind the control knob. This part replaces several older models and is engineered for long-term
Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17T10011
$64.77
In Stock
Terminal Block Kit
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(13)
Part #WB17T10011
This part provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).

Common Symptoms of the JS998SKS

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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Not working as far as heating or cooking
151 of 361 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theodore from Medical Lake, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced High Voltage Diode. Very carfully due to the extream danger of a electrical shock.
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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