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JMW3430WS02
JMW3430WS02 Jenn-Air Microwave - Overview
Sections of the JMW3430WS02
[Viewing 9 of 9]
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Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$5.42
In Stock
Element Support and Clip
PartSelect #: PS11766760
Manufacturer #: W10909479
NOTE: The manufacturer has modified the original design of this part to increase durability. As a result this part may take additional effort to install. The design includes a metal clip, which helps ...
$29.08
In Stock
Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11749457
Manufacturer #: WPW10169757
This is a replacement light bulb to illuminate the inside of your oven. It is 25 watts and 120 volts. Please wear gloves during replacement if your existing bulb is shattered. Consider ordering a spar...
$39.77
In Stock
Door Switch - 250V
PartSelect #: PS2338920
Manufacturer #: W10211972
This door switch (Primary and Secondary) keeps the microwave from running when the door is open.
NOTE: Two switches required. Sold individually.
$44.72
In Stock
Turntable Coupler
PartSelect #: PS11757403
Manufacturer #: WPW10776938
This part connects the motor to the glass tray to rotate the tray.
$27.68
In Stock
Halogen Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11765655
Manufacturer #: W10886919
This part is the replacement halogen light bulb for your range. The bulb is 10 watts and 12 volts. The halogen lamp lights up the inside of the oven you can see the cooktop more effectively in darknes...
$17.79
In Stock
Meat Probe
PartSelect #: PS11744536
Manufacturer #: WP7430P038-60
Also known as Heat Probe or Gauge. This probe is used to check the internal temperature of the meat to ensure proper temperature is reached.
$166.77
In Stock
RING-TURN
PartSelect #: PS12074822
Manufacturer #: W11110134
This roller is located underneath the glass turntable. With the help of the motor, this roller helps to rotate the glass tray. This part takes the place of the coupling.
$62.03
In Stock
Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS11744233
Manufacturer #: WP74008369
This sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
$152.10
In Stock
Questions And Answers for JMW3430WS02
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Common Symptoms of the JMW3430WS02
[Viewing 6 of 6]Tray won’t turn
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Won’t turn on
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No heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Noisy
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The ceramic bracket holding the conventional heating element at the top of the microwave oven broke for the second time
Part No. PS11766760
Ignore the other repair comments on this page!!! The new replacement part can no longer be put into place as simply as the original bracket. This is a r3eplacement part with a modified design. Significant parts of the microwave (MW) must be dismantled in order to provide access for insertion of the new part. Th ... Read more is is confirmed by notes at other web sites which provide this part. My approach also required cutting/drilling holes into sheet metal panels.
Kitchenaid/Whirlpool must have realized that the original part is inherently weak at the point at which it is supported at the ceiling of the MW. The replacement part is a good option from a strength standpoint, but a horrible one for ease of insertion. The original is a single ceramic piece. The replacement part includes a metal clip which holds the top stem of the ceramic bracket from the top ("roof") side of the MW. Getting at the top of the MW cavity is the difficult part. One needs to pull the entire built in oven from its location and remove at least the control panel from the front of the unit.
It took me 3-4 hours one day to see how to install the replacement part. I failed since I unexpectedly found that there are two sheet metal panels above the MW cavity which need to be removed in order to access the slot through which the bracket stem must be inserted. Maybe somebody else can think of a way to remove the metal panels, but I could not do it so I put the MW back together again.
After this failure I considered trying to repair the original part again (this was the second time it had broken). The first repair broke when the conventional heating element was used in the MW. This option might again be an interim solution so I went back to trying to install the new replacement part.
This time it took over 3 hours to remove the control panel, several wiring units, a transformer, and several side and top sheet metal panels. Each removal step was preceded with a photograph of the item to be removed so that everything could be put back as they were originally located. After all of this work it was determined that the MW would have to virtually be totally dismantled in order to access the bracket slot at the top of the MW cavity. There were simply too many items on top of the sheet metal panels to allow for bending the panels up to access the necessary slot in the oven ceiling.
Fortunately, my wife asked why I didn't consider drilling through the existing sheet metal panels at the top of the MW. Had she suggested that earlier in the dismantling, it would have saved hours of work.
After reassembling the side panels I drilled access holes through the two sheet metal panels over the top of the MW oven. Certainly one needs to be careful in measuring the location for such holes. The holes were to be rectangular, developed by drilling multiple holes around the perimeters of the final "holes." The two sheet metal panels are about 3/4" apart and the lower panel is about 3/4" above the MW oven cavity. After drilling out the holes (about 1/2" x 1") I successfully found the desired slot in the oven ceiling. Then the drill cuttings needed to be cleaned out with a vacuum cleaner - including inside the MW oven.
Inserting the replacement part was not trivial. One needs to hold the ceramic part in the oven, with the heating element in its proper place on the bracket, and then simultaneously place the metal clip onto the stem which has been inserted through the slot at the top of the MW oven. Long tweezers are handy for putting the clip into place. Then the fun begins. Somehow the metal clip must be pushed down onto the ceramic stem. This is a trial and error task with various long blunt tools used to try and push the clip down while not pushing it off to the side. Somehow I got the clip onto the stem and the part was finally in place.
Another hour (+) to re-assemble the MW and push the oven back into the cabinet and the job was finally done.
btw, the only reason it was relatively easy to pull the oven out of the cabinet (and push it back in) was that we have two office chairs at home (without arms) which come up to about the right height for having the oven sit on the chairs. Adding some 2x4's on the seats of the chairs brought it to exactly the right height. The wheels on the chairs also helped. Given the weight of the oven, removing and replacing the oven unit is not a trivial task and one needs to be careful at all times.
There were several observations I made about the new replacement part which also "froze me in my tracks" early in this project. That is why I kept thinking of ways in which to repair the original part more effectively than I had done previously. The problem is that the ceramic section of the replacement part is not the same size as the original. It holds the heating element higher against the ceiling of the microwave and the horizontal section which holds the heating element is shor
Ignore the other repair comments on this page!!! The new replacement part can no longer be put into place as simply as the original bracket. This is a r3eplacement part with a modified design. Significant parts of the microwave (MW) must be dismantled in order to provide access for insertion of the new part. Th ... Read more is is confirmed by notes at other web sites which provide this part. My approach also required cutting/drilling holes into sheet metal panels.
Kitchenaid/Whirlpool must have realized that the original part is inherently weak at the point at which it is supported at the ceiling of the MW. The replacement part is a good option from a strength standpoint, but a horrible one for ease of insertion. The original is a single ceramic piece. The replacement part includes a metal clip which holds the top stem of the ceramic bracket from the top ("roof") side of the MW. Getting at the top of the MW cavity is the difficult part. One needs to pull the entire built in oven from its location and remove at least the control panel from the front of the unit.
It took me 3-4 hours one day to see how to install the replacement part. I failed since I unexpectedly found that there are two sheet metal panels above the MW cavity which need to be removed in order to access the slot through which the bracket stem must be inserted. Maybe somebody else can think of a way to remove the metal panels, but I could not do it so I put the MW back together again.
After this failure I considered trying to repair the original part again (this was the second time it had broken). The first repair broke when the conventional heating element was used in the MW. This option might again be an interim solution so I went back to trying to install the new replacement part.
This time it took over 3 hours to remove the control panel, several wiring units, a transformer, and several side and top sheet metal panels. Each removal step was preceded with a photograph of the item to be removed so that everything could be put back as they were originally located. After all of this work it was determined that the MW would have to virtually be totally dismantled in order to access the bracket slot at the top of the MW cavity. There were simply too many items on top of the sheet metal panels to allow for bending the panels up to access the necessary slot in the oven ceiling.
Fortunately, my wife asked why I didn't consider drilling through the existing sheet metal panels at the top of the MW. Had she suggested that earlier in the dismantling, it would have saved hours of work.
After reassembling the side panels I drilled access holes through the two sheet metal panels over the top of the MW oven. Certainly one needs to be careful in measuring the location for such holes. The holes were to be rectangular, developed by drilling multiple holes around the perimeters of the final "holes." The two sheet metal panels are about 3/4" apart and the lower panel is about 3/4" above the MW oven cavity. After drilling out the holes (about 1/2" x 1") I successfully found the desired slot in the oven ceiling. Then the drill cuttings needed to be cleaned out with a vacuum cleaner - including inside the MW oven.
Inserting the replacement part was not trivial. One needs to hold the ceramic part in the oven, with the heating element in its proper place on the bracket, and then simultaneously place the metal clip onto the stem which has been inserted through the slot at the top of the MW oven. Long tweezers are handy for putting the clip into place. Then the fun begins. Somehow the metal clip must be pushed down onto the ceramic stem. This is a trial and error task with various long blunt tools used to try and push the clip down while not pushing it off to the side. Somehow I got the clip onto the stem and the part was finally in place.
Another hour (+) to re-assemble the MW and push the oven back into the cabinet and the job was finally done.
btw, the only reason it was relatively easy to pull the oven out of the cabinet (and push it back in) was that we have two office chairs at home (without arms) which come up to about the right height for having the oven sit on the chairs. Adding some 2x4's on the seats of the chairs brought it to exactly the right height. The wheels on the chairs also helped. Given the weight of the oven, removing and replacing the oven unit is not a trivial task and one needs to be careful at all times.
There were several observations I made about the new replacement part which also "froze me in my tracks" early in this project. That is why I kept thinking of ways in which to repair the original part more effectively than I had done previously. The problem is that the ceramic section of the replacement part is not the same size as the original. It holds the heating element higher against the ceiling of the microwave and the horizontal section which holds the heating element is shor
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Peet from LAKE OSWEGO, OR
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
68 of 72 people
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Ceramic part holding up the heating element fell and broke.
Easiest repair I've made in years. Didn't even need a tool.
One end slides into a hole in the ceiling of the microwave/convection over, move the heating element into place and turn the mounting bracket and you're done.
One end slides into a hole in the ceiling of the microwave/convection over, move the heating element into place and turn the mounting bracket and you're done.
Parts Used:
-
Jerry from Woodinville, WA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
30 of 40 people
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oven temp wrong
Remove the oven door. Remove 3 self tappers on rear wall of oven to take off a round access panel. Pull out a pre-cut rectangle of insulation. Next I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in place. Pulling the sensor out a bit told me I was "touching" the correct wires in the SMALL rectangular opening. The wires are not visable and 2 h
... Read more
ands do not fit in this small opening.I looked at the NEW sensor to see the release on the sensor plug. Slip the angled needle nose into the opening and grasp the plug/release side. The plug pulled apart easily. The sensor wire pulls out with a little bit of twisting to fit it out the hole. The new plug pushes in and has to be worked down to where you can reach it. The same angled plier works to re-attach it. It takes longer to read this than to do the job. Best of luck, Al
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Parts Used:
-
Alan from Wallkill, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
12 of 13 people
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