JM250DF1CC General Electric Range - Overview
Sections of the JM250DF1CC
[Viewing 4 of 4]
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Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244394
Manufacturer #: WB31T10010
This drip bowl, also known as the drip pan or burner bowl, is 6 inches in internal diameter to match the burner, but actually measures closer to 8 inches in total diameter to its outer edges. This au...
$20.95
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244395
Manufacturer #: WB31T10011
This Drip Bowl, also known as a burner bowl or drip pan, is made to fit an element 8 inches in diameter and comes in chrome. The actual total diameter of this drip bowl is closer to 10 inches, but don...
$25.15
In Stock
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS783534
Manufacturer #: WB17T10006
This kit includes the female contact with wires, terminal block and mounting clip.
$34.97
In Stock
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
PartSelect #: PS236750
Manufacturer #: WB24T10025
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to c...
$43.19
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
$19.90
In Stock
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
PartSelect #: PS236754
Manufacturer #: WB24T10029
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat ...
$49.39
In Stock
Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$144.12
In Stock
Surface Heating Element - 8 Inch
PartSelect #: PS8768336
Manufacturer #: WB30X20481
Sold individually.
$80.33
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS271689
Manufacturer #: WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
$15.68
In Stock
Light Cover
PartSelect #: PS247415
Manufacturer #: WB36X192
This light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven, range, or stove. No tools are necessary to replace this part. Simply slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. ...
$25.78
In Stock
Range Surface Heating Element
PartSelect #: PS8768334
Manufacturer #: WB30X20478
Introduce improved functionality to your cooking range with our coil style Surface Heating Element. Crafted meticulously by GE, this product delivers superior heating performance for your everyday coo...
$65.10
In Stock
Questions And Answers for JM250DF1CC
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Common Symptoms of the JM250DF1CC
[Viewing 5 of 5]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Oven not heating evenly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Burner bowls needed replacement
Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3
Parts Used:
-
Tom from North Prairie, WI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
488 of 507 people
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Burner Bowl Needed Replaced
-
Stephen from Knoxville, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
524 of 691 people
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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Parts Used:
-
James from Austin, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
224 of 264 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!