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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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The Grate Foot is a black rubber part which attaches underneath the grate in order to protect your stovetop from being scratched, which it does by cushioning the grate on your gas range. If this part ...
The temperature sensor, also known as the oven temperature sensor assembly is usually found in the back of the oven. The function of the oven temperature sensor assembly is to measure the temperature ...
The top burner spark electrode, also known as a range surface burner igniter, is designed for use in your gas range. The function of this part is to provide the spark that lights the surface burner. I...
The oven rack is sold individually. It is chrome in color and measures approximately 24 inches wide by 17-1/2 inches deep. The rack is used to hold cookware in the oven and slides back and forth for e...
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawe...
This burner cap is for your gas range, and acts as a cover for the burner head. It is black in color and just over 3 inches in diameter. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is the part ...
This is a replacement burner cap for your gas range or cooktop. The burner cap is found on the burner head, and prevents debris from getting into the head when it is not in use. The cap is black in co...
This is a burner cap for your gas range. The cap acts as a cover for the burner head. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is the part that will replace it. The cap is black in color and...
This burner head, or surface burner, is used in ranges and ovens. The burner sends gas through the holes and slots to create an equal flame across the cooking area. If the gas igniter glows but will n...
This is a burner cap for your gas range. The cap is black in color and about 3 inches in diameter. The cap acts as a cover for the burner head. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is th...
This large surface burner head is designed for use with gas cooktops and ranges, delivering consistent heat output for everyday cooking. Rated at 12,000 BTUs, it distributes gas evenly through precisi...
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2 questions answered by our experts.
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Carl
4 days ago
WHAR ARE TE DEMENTIONS OF THIS RANGE
For model number JGSP42SET1SS
Hello Carl, thank you for reaching out to us. According to our research, the dimensions of the range are: 36 H x 31 1/4 W x 28 1/2 D inches. We hope this information helps!
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Don
March 3, 2020
Gas stove will light with match but all electrical is dead but outlet ok works with anything else plugged in it
For model number JGSP42SET1SS
Hello Don, thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could be causing that issue. We would recommend testing the PartSelect Number: PS952858 Top burner electrode, PartSelect Number: PS2345599 spark module, and PartSelect Number: PS1481012 switch harness. The switch harness is discontinued so if the issue is the switches, the unit would be unable to be repaired. I hope this helps.
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Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
After removing the door and the lower pan cover, I removed 4 screws holding down the flame spreader. Once the flame spreader was off, I was looking at the two screws that hold on the igniter assembly. For some reason, these seemed to be the worst part of the repair. One screw broke off at the head as soon as I tried to loosen it. The
... Read moreother was apparently stripped during the initial installation. Due to lack of space to fit the dremel tool in the area, it took quite some time to remove the second screw. Once I finally got those removed, it was a piece of cake. The assembly easily pulled out approximately 4 inches to disconnect the plug. The new plug was easy to insert and push back in the cavity behind the oven. I had extra sheet metal screws, so the installation of the new assembly took less than 10 minutes. As I said, the worst part was the stripped screw and lack of space to get the proper tool to remove it.
LIke the other posters, this should have been an easy fix. From internet research my official self-diagnosis was that either the ignitor didn't work or there was a problem with a temperature sensor or control module. At $70 for the part vs. $230 to get a Sears repair main out here (in two weeks time?!), I rolled the dice and decided to o
... Read morerder the part.
Taking the door off of the oven took a bit of figuring out (back to the internet), but once you know how it's very easy - 10 seconds.
After you take off the door, you then take out what I would call a heat shield that goes across the entire bottom of the oven (no tools needed) and then remove the 'heat spreader' with a socket set. That came off easy as well. Total time maybe 5 minutes.
Then the fun started. One of the two screws that connects the igniter sheared off. Luckily it sheared in a way that it didn't hold the ignitor any more, and the other screw maintained its integrity so in the end I could re-attach the ignitor. Ignitor off in less than 5 minutes.
All the repair guides say that you just unplug the ignitor from the quick disconnect plug and replace it with the new one. Sounds great but I couldn't get to the quick disconnect - the wires wouldn't pull far enough out to reveal the quick disconnect. I could see it and feel it with a finger in the hole, but either the wires weren't long enough or it was caught on something (felt like the former). I tried pulling harder, but got to a point where I felt I was going to break something and so I stopped.
I then started looking at how I could get the back of the oven off or another way to get access to that quick disconnect. Long story short - you can't do it through the front of the oven, you have to pull the entire oven out and go through a hatch in the back of the oven. Once I had figured that out everything was ok, but it took me 2 days of poking around for 10 minutes here, going to the internet there, and back and forth to decide I couldn't get to it from the front and how exactly to pull the oven out (turns out the type with the controls on the front hangs down from the counter itself and doesn't slide out easy - it takes some elbow grease to actually do it.).
In the end I wasn't confident I could get it back in by myself if I slide it completely out, so I pulled it part-way and then climbed on the counter and then into the small space I had created behind the stove.
Everything said and done I spent a couple hours messing with this. It turns out that the wires for both ignitors were routed around each other incorrectly and when I reconnected the new ignitor correctly I could pull the ignitor through the front of the oven like you're supposed to do. Glad it's fixed, but nothing is ever as easy as it should be...
