JGD3430BS00 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Overview
Sections of the JGD3430BS00
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Burner Electrode
PartSelect #: PS11744318
Manufacturer #: WP74009336
This is a burner electrode for your oven, range, or stove. This part has a male spade. It helps your burner ignite by creating a spark, producing a flame, and lighting the surface burner. If your burn...
$30.53
In Stock
Range Bumper
PartSelect #: PS11770098
Manufacturer #: W10919249
Sold individually. Must be held in with adhesive.
$12.85
In Stock
Dryer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$7.47
In Stock
Range Igniter Screw
PartSelect #: PS11745563
Manufacturer #: WP8273062
This screw is sold individually.
$7.47
In Stock
X-Large Burner Head with Electrode
PartSelect #: PS2085280
Manufacturer #: 74007736
This is the burner head and electrode for your gas range. If your gas igniter glows but will not light, or if the element will not start or heat entirely, you may need to replace the burner head. This...
$81.73
In Stock
Large Burner Head
PartSelect #: PS2085279
Manufacturer #: 74007735
This part includes the spark igniter.
$74.98
In Stock
Burner Head with Electrode - Small
PartSelect #: PS2085278
Manufacturer #: 74007734
This burner assembly is designed for a small burner on a gas range or cooktop and includes the burner head and spark electrode. The burner head directs gas through precision openings to create a stead...
$69.91
In Stock
Downdraft Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS11772946
Manufacturer #: W10905834
This downdraft vent grease filter is a factory-certified replacement part designed to trap grease particles from the cooktop’s exhaust airflow. By capturing grease before it reaches the blower and ven...
$30.53
In Stock
Range Exhaust Vent Blower Wheel
PartSelect #: PS11757592
Manufacturer #: WPY707985
This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
$94.66
In Stock
REGULATOR
PartSelect #: PS12070643
Manufacturer #: W11087445
Your Whirlpool blender or mixer plays an important role in your kitchen, right? So, when it stops working effectively, it?s a real hassle. Luckily, the Whirlpool Collar with Cutting Blade is here to g...
$135.40
In Stock
Questions And Answers for JGD3430BS00
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David
February 13, 2023
The electrical plug got accidentally pulled out of the outlet under the stovetop, and after plugging it back in, the igniter continually clicks. I'm able to light all four burners, but even after igniting them, the igniter continues to click. Any ideas?
For model number JGD3430BS00
Hi David, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, the issue is probably with the following parts: burner electrode, part number PS11744318, and spark module, part number PS11755329. We hope this sorts out your problem!
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Donna
January 27, 2024
I am in search for cartridge assembly drip pan for the above mentioned gas top range model. Please assist me in what would be the correct item that will safely fit my Jen Air gas stove top.
Thank you for your assistance.
For model number JGD3430BS00
Hello Donna, thank you for reaching out. The drip tray you are looking for is part number PS2366890. It is sold individually. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week!
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Common Symptoms of the JGD3430BS00
[Viewing 3 of 3]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Ignitor stopped working on gas cooktop
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and th
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en rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
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Parts Used:
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Jeff from Lake Orion, MI
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
87 of 91 people
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The ceramic insulator on the burner ignitor cracked & the spark shorted so that the burner would not ignite.
Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reco
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nnected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!
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Parts Used:
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Loren from San Luis Obispo, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
32 of 35 people
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Burners kept clicking after ignited
This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I
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did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
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Parts Used:
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Robert from Ranchos de Taos, NM
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
29 of 33 people
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