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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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The flat style oven igniter kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. The igniter kit is used to light the oven burner. If you notice that your oven will not heat up properly...
This burner cap is for your gas range, and acts as a cover for the burner head. It is black in color and just over 3 inches in diameter. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is the part ...
This is a replacement burner cap for your gas range or cooktop. The burner cap is found on the burner head, and prevents debris from getting into the head when it is not in use. The cap is black in co...
This is a burner cap for your gas range. The cap acts as a cover for the burner head. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is the part that will replace it. The cap is black in color and...
This burner head, or surface burner, is used in ranges and ovens. The burner sends gas through the holes and slots to create an equal flame across the cooking area. If the gas igniter glows but will n...
This is a burner cap for your gas range. The cap is black in color and about 3 inches in diameter. The cap acts as a cover for the burner head. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is th...
This large surface burner head is designed for use with gas cooktops and ranges, delivering consistent heat output for everyday cooking. Rated at 12,000 BTUs, it distributes gas evenly through precisi...
This genuine small burner is an original replacement part from GE, designed for use with a wide range of gas ranges. Positioned between the rangetop and bracket assembly and the burner cap, it plays a...
The light housing is also known as a lamp holder and is a part for the oven in your range. The function of this piece is to hold the bulb that will light up the inside of your oven. As per the manufac...
This is a replacement vision burner or surface burner head for your gas range. It is silver in color and approximately 4.5 inches in diameter. This burner is sold individually. The burner head distrib...
Ensure the stability of your GE range with this leveling leg. An essential accessory for your appliance, it helps maintain balance and provides support. With its adjustable design, you have the abilit...
This stainless steel burner control knob is a genuine replacement component designed to restore precise heat control to your range or cooktop. Featuring an “Off-Lo-1-9-Hi-Lite” configuration, it allow...
$34.97
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 19
Questions And Answers for JGB750EEF2ES
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2 questions answered by our experts.
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Douglas
February 25, 2020
I have weak or no spark on the right top burners(front and back) when trying to ignite. Can you indicate which parts to inspect or replace to solve this issue
For model number JGB750EEF2ES
Hi Douglas,
Thank you for your question. A normally functioning igniter will typically click up to three times before it sparks. But, every now and then you may run into instances where the igniter continues to click or tick even after the burner is lit, or the burner never lights at all. A clicking igniter typically is not dangerous and may continue to click if the gas is shut off. One of the most common sources of this issue is that the burner cap is out of place. Make sure the cooktop is completely cooled and remove the Burner Grate to access the cap. Try removing the cap and center it on the base. If the burner cap is askew, it can prevent the burner from lighting. If that doesn’t work, check for moisture. If you recently had a pot boil over on burner, a food or grease spill, or cleaned the cooktop, there may still be moisture present even if it looks dry. Remove the burner cap and give the burner time to air dry. To speed up the process, make sure all the burners are off and towel off the top of the range. You can then either use a fan aimed at the range top or set your oven to 350°F and leave it on for around 30 minutes to speed up dry time. If you see that there is debris stuck in the holes in the burner, that could also potentially be the culprit. You can use a metal pin or paper clip to clear the debris out of the grooves. Never use items such as toothpicks to do this, they may break off and get lodged inside. If you get through all of these tips and still have the clicking problem, it may be the spark module, spark ignition switch or the igniter itself. You can find replacements for your model stove for purchase on our website. If you feel comfortable, this is a repair you can do yourself. But, if you are ever unsure do not hesitate to contact a technician and consult your owner’s manual. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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John
November 23, 2024
Looking for the oven thermostat
For model number JGB750EEF2ES
Hello John, Thank you for asking. The Range Oven Temperature Sensor for this model is listed as PartSelect #: PS2374070. Thank you for the inquiry, good luck with the repair!
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new ignite
... Read morer in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day,
... Read moreyou cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove. 2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward. 3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the t
... Read morerack to release. 4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel. 5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang. 6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part. 7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end. 8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector. 9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor. 10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw. 11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned. 12. Replaced the door. 13. Replaced the oven drawer.
This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
