Models
>
I8RXCGFXQ01
I8RXCGFXQ01 Inglis Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the I8RXCGFXQ01
[Viewing 6 of 6]Manuals & Care Guides for I8RXCGFXQ01
Click to downloadKeep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$7.51
In Stock

Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$45.45
In Stock

Capacitor
PartSelect #: PS11757023
Manufacturer #: WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$55.23
In Stock

Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$30.86
In Stock

Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
PartSelect #: PS11738927
Manufacturer #: WP2156003
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a dama...
$12.85
In Stock

Evaporator Fan Motor
PartSelect #: PS11740359
Manufacturer #: WP2315539
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
$64.85
In Stock

ICEMAKER
PartSelect #: PS16660327
Manufacturer #: W11510803
This genuine OEM ice maker kit is designed to fit refrigerators that did not originally come with an ice maker. This kit contains everything needed to install the new ice maker on your refrigerator in...
$124.07
On Order

Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
PartSelect #: PS11739204
Manufacturer #: WP2195916K
Sold Individually.
$15.08
On Order

Crisper Pan
PartSelect #: PS11739936
Manufacturer #: WP2256704
This crisper pan, or drawer, is made for your refrigerator. The drawer has a controlled environment to ensure a proper humidity level to keep your produce fresh for longer. It is clear in color and ma...
$93.21
On Order

Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$6.10
In Stock

Hinge Bracket
PartSelect #: PS11739061
Manufacturer #: WP2183805
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets f...
$12.56
In Stock
Questions And Answers for I8RXCGFXQ01
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
- < Prev
- 1
- Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Ian
June 4, 2022
How to remove Glass from all the selves, I have watched the vid on how to remove the glass from the crisper shelf, so no need to show me this again, it's the other shelfs that I need help with. Best Regards
Spud
For model number I8RXCGFXQ01

Hello Ian, Thank you for the question. The glass in the other shelves can not be removed. The shelf has been assembled with the glass permanently installed into the frame. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
- < Prev
- 1
- Next >
Common Symptoms of the I8RXCGFXQ01
[Viewing 18 of 18]Fridge too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Light not working
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Freezer section too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Fridge and Freezer are too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Freezer not defrosting
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Door won’t open or close
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Ice maker not making ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Clicking sound
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Fridge too cold
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Noisy
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Frost buildup
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Freezer too cold
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Fridge runs too long
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Leaking
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Ice maker won’t dispense ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Door Sweating
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
Parts Used:
-
garth from forest lake, MN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
370 of 429 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Parts Used:
-
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
152 of 175 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Evaporator Fan failure
The reason I repaired it myself was because the repairman that diagnosed the problem.didn't come back in two weeks. The evaporator fan sits behind a vented wall in the freezer and directs cold air into freezer and refrigerator.I removed the ice make assembly first and then the freezer wall held in place by two sheet metal nuts. Then removed wires from fan motor. Removed the fan blade from fan motor,which was press fitted on,then removed fan motor from bracket assembly(make sure and retain the two vibration rubber washers on back and front of motor. Reinstall new motor with vibration washers and press fan blade on new motor. Install in bracket assemble and reassemnble.
Parts Used:
-
William from Middletown, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
146 of 158 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!