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HTS22GBPBRWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview

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Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WR50X10068
$35.95
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
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(18)
Part #WR50X10068
This defrost termination thermostat (Defrost Limiter Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, Refrigerator Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat) acts as a safety device to stop the evaporator coil from overheating, by turning off the defrost heater at the end of the defrost cycle. This part attaches to the tubing of the evaporator coil in the freezer. A faulty defrost termination thermostat may result in the defrost heater never heating and a solid frost buildup on the evaporator coil, which results in too warm temperatures. The thermostat contacts are normally closed and have continuity until it reaches 140 degrees. If this high limit thermostat is open at room temperature or colder, it is defective. This limit thermostat has an attached mounting clip and comes with pink and amber wire leads. The thermostat is 1 inch in diameter and 1/2 inch thick, the 2 wire leads are 10 inches long.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red – Part Number: WR02X12008
$13.92
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
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★★★★★
(27)
Part #WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan grommet is located behind the evaporator fan cover in the back of the freezer. You will need to remove the evaporator fan cover to access the evaporator fan and complete this repair. Before you begin this repair, ensure the power to the refrigerator is disconnected. You will need a pair of needle nose pliers, a small flat blade screw driver and both a 1/4 and 5/16-inch nut driver to complete this repair.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
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★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Condenser Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10220
$50.56
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor
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★★★★★
(48)
Part #WR60X10220
This fan motor is most times used with frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. When the compressor runs, so does this fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compressor and condenser coils. This fan motor also helps to evaporate excess water in the drain pan.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WR02X12149
$16.05
In Stock
Compression Ring
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★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR02X12149
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a Phillips screw driver and small flat blade screw driver. Be sure to turn off your refrigerator before removing the evaporator fan cover so the fan does not turn on during repair. It is recommended to check the grommets, evaporator fan, and fan blades during repair in case they also need replacning. The compression ring may need replacing if the fan is noisy, or the refrigerator compartments are too warm. This part is sold individually.
Lid Bumper – Part Number: WR02X10540
$16.05
In Stock
Lid Bumper
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★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down or missing, and the sound could be a result of the motor scraping the side bracket. You will find it between the fan motor and the side bracket on the evaporator fan motor assembly. To access the bumper, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly from the freezer. This part is made of orange rubber and is less than half an inch in diameter. It has a rounded top and a slightly pointed bottom, and is sold individually.
Condenser Fans Blade Assembly – Part Number: WR60X10207
$19.40
Special Order
Condenser Fans Blade Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR60X10207
The condenser fan blade assembly helps to regulate the temperature in your refrigerator or freezer. This fan assembly has 4 blades, but other fans may have 3 blades, so be sure to check the number of blades on your fan. The fan blade is made of white plastic and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. If your freezer section is too warm, or you notice a strange noise coming from your refrigerator when it is running, you may need to replace the condenser fan blade assembly. This part is sold individually.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey – Part Number: WR02X11331
$16.23
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey
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★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR02X11331
This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unusually noisy, it could be because the grommet is damaged. This grommet is made of grey plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. To access the fan grommet and complete this repair, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly. This part is sold individually.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X10072
$43.18
On Order
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(21)
Part #WR72X10072
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one side, or it will not stay in place at all. The drawer slide rail is for the right side of the drawer only, so be sure to check that you are replacing the correct drawer rail. This part is made of white plastic and is approximately 15 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WR50X10071
$39.55
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WR50X10071
this part acts as a safety device against over-heating in case of mechanical failure.
Compressor Start Relay – Part Number: WR07X26748
$20.17
In Stock
Compressor Start Relay
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★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR07X26748
This part is the replacement compressor start relay for your refrigerator. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1 ¼ inches long and 1 inch wide. The compressor start relay attaches to the compressor and helps to start the compressor motor. If the compressor will not start, or if your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, you may need to replace the compressor start relay. This part is sold individually. It is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Manuals & Care Guides for HTS22GBPBRWW

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Questions And Answers for HTS22GBPBRWW

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Teddy - For model number Hts22gbpbrww
October 28, 2025
Top freezer door comes open Everytime frig door shuts
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Teddy, thank you for reaching out. The issue seems to be with the freezer door gasket, part number PS296762. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this sorts out your problem!
$173.75
In Stock
Freezer Door Gasket
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Kim - For model number HTS22GBPBRWW
July 27, 2023
controls with wheels do not show a setting number. can you adjust by turning wheels right or left?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Kim, thank you for your inquiry. Based on our research, you may need to turn the knobs anticlockwise for colder setting, and clockwise if you want to lower the cooling. We hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the HTS22GBPBRWW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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My refrigerator began to overheat and the everything was thawing!!
165 of 195 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Tampa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator began to overheat and the everything was thawing!! The condenser fan motor had seized and I thought this is something even I can replace.

I did a Google search on the refrigerator model number. The link to your site looked promising and I clicked on it. I was taken to your web page for my refrigerator and I clic ked on the schematic for the condenser assembly.

The schematic had the parts I needed labeled clearly so this layman could be sure to get the right ones.

I ordered the parts at 12:45PM Monday and selected overnight shipping. The parts arrived at 8:35AM Tuesday (Thank you FedEx). I installed the parts and my refrigerator is up and running again.

To get to the condenser fan motor I took off the back panel on the fridge that covers the condenser, fan and coil. The fan/motor assembly is attached to a bracket I removed with two screws. Pulled the bracket assembly out of the back of the fridge, removed the fan blade and then the motor, and put the new motor on the bracket and stuck the new fan blade on the motor spindle. The trickiest part was getting the complete assembly back in. Just went slowly and took my time. Reconnected the wires, no problems. I took pictures of everything that I disassembled BEFORE I disassembled it in case I wasn't sure how something went back in but this job was so simple I didn't need the pictures.

I’m not sure how I could improve on this except maybe you could ship a refrigerator technician, too, to do the install.

Thank you PartSelect everything worked out better than I could have hoped and I saved $220.00 compared to what a repair service was quoting.
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Freezer cold, but Refrigerator not cooling. Iced up coils.
77 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Pratt, KS
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part.
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. L ocate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!
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Freezer & Frig Were Not Cold
77 of 104 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sam from Cooper City, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the rear cover, located at the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I cleaned out the dirt & dust on and around the compressor. The relay has a cover, that is secured with a spring loaded clip. To release the clip, push in with your fingers, while disengaging the end clip with a screwdriver. Once one side is off the ot her lifts off. Remove cove exposing the relay. There is one wire terminated, with a spade clip, remove it. With a strait blade screwdriver, pry the relay off the 2 post it slides on to. (Don't be surprised if it breaks into pieces, as they are sometimes brittle. ) Slide the new relay onto the 2 posts, replace the wire onto the right terminal, and replace the relay cover & clip. Replace the rear cover. Plug in and test.
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