HMG214827A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.

I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.

I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repair in 10 minutes.

I pulled the fridge away from the wall.

I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.

I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.

I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.

Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.

I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.

I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.

My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.

Turned off water supply and unplugged appliance. Removed lower panel on back of refrigerator with 1/4 " nutdriver. Then removed supply line, and line to icemaker. removed valve from back panel and replaced with new valve. wrapped water connections with teflon tape, turned on supply line, checked for leaks, everything o.k..Replaced back panel and in 45 minutes had first drop of ice. Job requires moderate mechanical ability and minimum tools. Saved a PANT load of money by doing it myself. VERY satisfied with Partselect.com

I removed control knobs and a couple of screws and forced the assembly down enough to remove the old thermostat, and insert the new one. Lucky me it was a identical replacement item. Job took about an hour.

First you must unplug the refrigerator, then remove the top hinge and freezer door, then you must remove the middle hinge to remove the refrigerator door, after that there are 4 screws located in the refrigerator compartment that must be removed that are holding the plastic control knob trim in place. When you remove these screws and drop the trim piece you can unplug the wiring on it, to completly remove it, next right above the plastic trim previously removed there is a metal trim with 3 screws holding it in place they will be removed now. Now you need to remove all of the shelving in the freezer compartment these pieces will just snap out , at the lower left and right sides of the freezer compartment there are two plastic tips that are attached to the main plastic body of this compartment they will need to be snapped out from behind the metal body of the refrigerator this can be done with a flat head screwdriver. Now pull straight out on the plastic body and it should come out , this will expose an insulating cover over the freezer coil where the defrost heater is located,if this is covered with ice you will need a heat gun which is a overgrown hair dryer basically. To melt the ice you will have to remove a insulating cover that is located behind the previously removed front metal trim it will come out by gently snapping it out of place, use caution during this step so not to break the cover in half. This will expose the front of the freezer coil and you can now use the heat gun to melt the ice, keep a check on the drain pan beneath the refrigerator as it will have to be emptied depending on the amount of ice build up. As the ice melts it should release the top cover of the coil and this will lift out of place also again use caution when removing the cover. With the coil exposed melt the remaining ice, if you look in the coil you will see the defrost heater, if the glass tube on the heater is broken please use extreme caution so you will not get cut by it , now you can unplug each wire from each side of the heater you may need a pair of pliers for this. when the wires are unplugged you can now lift out the bad heater again use caution if the glass is broken. There is a gaurd over the heater that will have to be removed by sliding it off the end wires when you have this off, slide it over the wires on the new element, now gently install the new heater back in the coil reconnect the 2 end wires and make sure they are connected good. you can now assemble all of the covers and parts in the reverse order you removed them, when assenbly is complete plug the refrigerator back in and in about three hours or so you should here the fan and compressor stop and the unit should go into a defrost cycle during this you should here the water running to the drain pan as it melts.

Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve.
Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease.
Absolutely Simple!

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) Then I put the new valve in, put the cover back on the refridgerator and was done. total time 15 minutes. My wife says I'm the man.

Due to some deformity of the gasket, it didn't seal all the way around. The instructions suggested using a heat light to warm the gasket with the door open. That didn't work too well so I closed the door and used a heat gun lightly in the areas it didn't seal. That worked great to soften the gasket so the magnet in the gasket could pull it gasket tight to the refrigerator. I let it cool with the door closed and it now seals perfectly.

First, I read the instructions that came with the replacement ice maker, which I found confusing because they were apparently written to be installed in some other make of refrigerator. However, after removing the white plastic cover on the new unit and insuring that it was identical to the one that came with the refrigerator, I removed the old unit by first, removing the bottom screw that held the unit to the side of the refrigerator. Then, I loosened the two top mounting screws. slid the unit up and pulled out and away from the side of the refrigerator. Then, holding the unit in my left hand, I pinched the two plastic tongs on either side of the wiring harness where it attached to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, took the ice maker out of the freezer compartment and set it aside. Then I located the water regulator screw on the right side of the new ice maker and turned it one complete turn clockwise to reduce the amount of water that would fill the unit. After reinstalling the white plastic cover on the new ice maker, I saw that the wiring harness that came with it would not fit my refrigerator's outlet. So I removed the wiring harness from the old ice maker and installed it on the new one. Then I connected it to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, slid the ice maker over the two top mounting screws and then pulled down to seat the screws. Next, I used a small torpedo level to level the ice maker both vertically and horizontally. This required placing several flat washers behind the metal mounting bracket at the bottom of the ice maker and the refrigerator wall. Once I had leveled the new ice maker, I tightened all three screws and shut replaced the ice receiver tray. Works fine.

r#1 removed upper hinge bracket, removed icebox door, unscrewed middle hinge bracket, removed main door, extracted broken plastic bushings, pushed in new bushings, reversed process while adjusting doors. works fine now.

#2 compared door seal with new one from partselect. Turned out that new seal is not magnetic. Had to return. Door still has bad seal.

First pull out frig and unplug. Shut off water valve. I just had to remove two screws to disconnect unit from bottom rear corner of frig. Pull element out just a few inches and disconnect the plug that feeds it electric. Disconnect water hose and reattach to new unit. Reconnect electric plug and reinstall in back of frig, securing with two screws. I have an older appliance, so I had to jury rig a bit when reattaching new unit by drilling two new holes for mounting. Also, I had to buy a new water hose because the old part would not accept the standard female end of the hose to connect to. Home Depot has the standard icemaker hoses with two female ends. These two glitches would probably not apply to a newer appliance, but anyway, it's cranking out the ice just fine now! Sure I saved alot of money, even with the extra $10 investment for the hose.

Most importantly make sure you get the wrinkles out of the gasket, a step we did not follow exactly, so we ended up having to work the seal a lot more to make it fit properly which of course made the repair take longer than needed. Other than that no problems here

Removed old valve first, found part # on it.
Entered part # into search box on computer.
It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!
Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.
I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the refrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.

order a new try and install