GTMX180GD4WW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing.
It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.

After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.

Took off three nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.

Really simple task,

It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.

Swapping out the ice dispenser damper door was pretty easy- just used a combination of screwdrivers to remove the dispenser assembly, popped the old damper off, put the new damper on. Replacing the control board was only a bit more complicated- unplugged the fridge, removed the control board metal cover (beware the somewhat sharp edges), unhooked all the cables from the board, used needle-nose pliers to pinch each plastic spacer/fastener as to not damage them while removing the old board, mounted the new board where the old board was, and plugged in all the cables (they were all different enough from each other that I didn't have any trouble figuring out where they were supposed to connect). I now have my fridge plugged into a surge protector- hopefully that will protect this new board I've installed. Thanks a bunch,PartSelect.

I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.

After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.

The ice dispenser would not dispense cubes. It only dispensed crushed ice. Also the plastic auger was partially broken and it took forever for ice to be dispensed. The auger was easy to figure out that it was broken. The dispenser issue took some time. I removed the ice bin and removed the panel behind it. There was a solenoid that burnt and melted and this did not allow the dispenser door to be controlled. I ordered the parts on a Thursday and they arrived on a Friday. Pretty simple to fix once I knew what the problem was. I could have gotten the parts cheaper from Searsparts.com but their description of parts and their pictures did not match and I wanted to make sure I got the right parts the first time. To be on the safe side I ordered a couple of pins and used one of them. The pin was a little hard to remove from the existing assemble so I put it in a vice and used a small pick and hammered out the old pin.

I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not making it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.

So there's a plastic water tank in our fridge, its purpose is to chill water so it's nice and cold when you dispense it from the freezer door tap. Long story short, during out kitchen remodel I stored the fridge in our unheated Wisconsin garage. The leftover water in the tank froze, expanded and ruptured it. Got the replacement, super easy to fix. The tubing connections are shark bite, just press them together and they're water tight. Pretty simple plug and play operation but you do have to pull the fridge all the way from the wall and shut off the water supply.
I replaced the filter too, just incase the freezing water messed with it in some undetectable way.

Unscrew old filter and remove(counterclockwise). Line up arrow on new filter with arrow on connection housing. Turn clockwise till resistance met. Do not overtighten. Follow directions. Simple.

My refrigerator began to overheat and the everything was thawing!! The condenser fan motor had seized and I thought this is something even I can replace.

I did a Google search on the refrigerator model number. The link to your site looked promising and I clicked on it. I was taken to your web page for my refrigerator and I clicked on the schematic for the condenser assembly.

The schematic had the parts I needed labeled clearly so this layman could be sure to get the right ones.

I ordered the parts at 12:45PM Monday and selected overnight shipping. The parts arrived at 8:35AM Tuesday (Thank you FedEx). I installed the parts and my refrigerator is up and running again.

To get to the condenser fan motor I took off the back panel on the fridge that covers the condenser, fan and coil. The fan/motor assembly is attached to a bracket I removed with two screws. Pulled the bracket assembly out of the back of the fridge, removed the fan blade and then the motor, and put the new motor on the bracket and stuck the new fan blade on the motor spindle. The trickiest part was getting the complete assembly back in. Just went slowly and took my time. Reconnected the wires, no problems. I took pictures of everything that I disassembled BEFORE I disassembled it in case I wasn't sure how something went back in but this job was so simple I didn't need the pictures.

I’m not sure how I could improve on this except maybe you could ship a refrigerator technician, too, to do the install.

Thank you PartSelect everything worked out better than I could have hoped and I saved $220.00 compared to what a repair service was quoting.

Unplug refrigerator. First I removed 3 screws to remove cover for Board ASM Main located on back of refrigerator then loosen Board by pressing on each of 4 plastic pins then unscrew ground wire (green) then transfer all plugs from old Board to new Board, put back new board through pins, screw back ground wire then put back cover then plug back refrigerator, took 5 minutes

I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.

First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.

1. Turn-off water
2. Removed drawers and bottom three shelfs
3. Remove screw inside refrige that is holding the water tank in place
4. Remove bottom front grate on fridge (2 screws) and disconnect water line from quick disconnect (residual water will run out of line)
5. Remove bottom cover on back of fridge
6. Disconnect water line from quick disconnect on bottom left side when looking from the back of the fridge (residual water will run out of line)
7. Remove water tank from inside of fridge
8. Install new water tank - install screw that hold water tank in position
9. Route lines through hole and to the two locations you removed the old ones
10. Install both lines by pushing them all the way in the quick disconnects. Pull on them to make sure they are secure.
11. Turn on water and look for leaks
12. Reinstall bottom front grate (2 screws)
13. Reinstall back cover (5 or 6 screws)
14. Install shelfs and drawers inside fridge

1) Removed the ice bin and emptied the ice.
2) Removed 5 screws total
3) (hardest part) JImmied a flat blade screwdriver into the left top side of the housing and pried gently to disengage the plastic holding clip. This only allows the left side of the housing to move up about a half-inch. Did the same on the right side and 'walked' the assembly out of the bin.
4) Removed the C clip and washer that holds the auger. and removed the auger assembly.
5) Before removing the screw at the end of the assembly, it is a good idea to take pictures of the ice crushing part of the assembly so that it goes back on correctly.
6) Removed the screw and carefully stacked the ice crush blades and washers.
7) Installed the ice crush blades on the new auger, re-installed the screw, washer and C clip.
8) Re-assembly is easy, you just need to set the end of the auger in the back of the ice bin and slowly re-install the housing portion.

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.