If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a ...
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down o...
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
This is the replacement hinge washer for your refrigerator. The hinge washer is mounted on the top of the door hinge pin, and supports the refrigerator door, allowing it to open and close easily. The ...
This refrigerator door handle mounting screw connects your refrigerator door to the handle. The part is less than 1 inch in length, and can come in both silver and gold colors. When installing this sc...
This part is the replacement snack pan slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches by 2 inches. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail....
$20.07
In Stock
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I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
... Read moreatch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Had to remove inside panels to expose coils in freezer. Used hair dryer and towels to de-ice. Reading online learned about defrost heater (long thin glass tube with wire coil in it I could not see b/c up under the inside of the coils). Who would have guessed freezers have heaters in them!! And learned the defrost timer (inside the fridge)
... Read more is just a continuous clock turning on and off the defrost heater. Anyways I used a screwdriver to turn the timer to defrost mode and by disconnecting the wires from each end of the heater and measuring the voltage, I found 70 volts there. Hmmm. I didn't know what was the right volt amount. Reading online I also found out the defrost Thermostat is basically a temp actuated on/off switch for that heater, so that while the timer is sending *120* volts to the heater (which gets red hot by the way) the therm switches the heater off when the temp gets high in the freezer. I eyeballed the therm ( it looks like a little can) and I saw that it was coming apart. The key at this moment is you can cut out and bypass the therm to see if the heater works. If it does you know the therm is the bad boy. But only do this as a momentary test or the heater will probably set your fridge on fire after a while!
Always remember to unplug the fridge when you are messing with the wires! And dry it up inside before putting your hands and tools in there!
So I ordered a therm using the model # of the fridge. Had to cut the old out and strip / wire nut the new one in.
Took too long b/c I was hung up on the heater being bad (after all it didn't heat up when I put the timer in defrost) and not knowing about the rights volts to the heater.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.