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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and th...
This is a duct felt seal for a dryer. The duct felt seal allows the front-load dryer drum to glide smoothly on the front panel. Your dryer will not function properly if the drum felt seal is compromis...
This lint filter is a genuine OEM component designed for use in both electric and gas clothes dryers. It plays a critical role in maintaining proper airflow by capturing lint and debris during drying ...
This drum glide bearing is an authentic OEM replacement part that is compatible with dryers. It is white in color and made of highly durable plastic. The bearing allows the drum to rotate smoothly and...
This OEM replacement dryer slide bearing is white in color, and approximately 3 inches long. The slide bearings are supportive linings for your dryer. If they have eroded, or are damaged, the drums wi...
This rear drum bearing sleeve is a critical support component located at the back of the dryer drum, designed to reduce friction and ensure smooth rotation during operation. As the drum spins, the sle...
This is the door switch for your dryer. Door switches are used to communicate with the control board when the door is fully closed, so the drying cycle can safely begin, and if it is opened so it can ...
This authentic OEM rear bearing O-ring is designed for use with GE dryers. It helps secure the drum rear bearing onto the drum shaft, playing a key role in maintaining smooth and quiet dryer operation...
Experience the seamless functionality of your dryer with the GE Door Hinge. This dryer component plays a crucial role in the operation of your machine, supporting the dryer door on its front panel. It...
This dryer door latch is designed to securely fasten the door to the cabinet, ensuring safe and reliable operation during each cycle. Made from durable gray materials, it engages with the door strike ...
$42.99
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Order now and your part arrives by Apr 23
Questions And Answers for GTD65GBSJ3WS
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13 questions answered by our experts.
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Kathleen
May 15, 2023
The dryer panel turns on but when you push the start button it just beeps and then scrolls the word pause it won't actually start working? Please help I tried unplugging it to maybe reset, there's no lint in the basket thing I at a loss as to what it could be
For model number GTD65GBSJ3WS
Hello Kathleen, thank you for the question. According to our research, this means the unit does not think that the door is shut. Open the door, look at the door switch, and push on it. If it's not beeping anymore, then you need to replace the door switch, part number PS12722948. If it beeps, you may need to replace the control board, part number PS16619011, because it detects that the door is opened. We hope this solves your problem!
Hi Bill,
Thank you for your question. If your dryer is not shutting off, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check door switch, the electronic control board, the cycling thermostat, the safety thermostat and the high limit thermostat. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
THe gas dryer would fire halfway between load it quit. The electricity is okayt
For model number GTD65GBSJ3WS
Hi Richard, thank you for your question. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix the issue: the igniter, part number PS12342916, the cycling thermostat, part number PS11736632, and the heat detector, part number PS268031. We hope this helps!
Hi, my dryer would not start even though everything else looked okay. I determined that the dryer belt was broken so I replaced it but the dryer still won't start. Does this dryer have a belt switch? If so, what is the replacement part for it. Thank you!
For model number GTD65GBSJ3WS
Hello Yogi, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, your model does not come with a belt switch separately. If you have already replaced the drive belt and still the issue persists, we would recommend you check the drive motor, part number PS12743452. Glad to be of help!
What are the part number for the gas coils, and do you sell them?
For model number GTD65GBSJ3WS
Hi Carl, thank you for getting in touch. The gas valve solenoid is not sold separately. It comes as a part of the gas valve assembly, part number PS12743312. You may need to order the entire gas valve assembly. We hope this solves your problem!
Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on. This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt
... Read more. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more>I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
