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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
This is a water hose clamp kit for a variety of appliances including dishwashers and washers. This is a genuine replacement part. The kit includes two hose clamps. The smaller of the two is 1 inch in ...
Perfect for your GE washer, the Nut Hub is designed to secure the washer hub to the gear case shaft with precision. It plays a crucial part in ensuring the appliance runs smoothly and efficiently. The...
Upgrade your washer with the reliable Washer Hub from GE. This essential component, often referred to as the hub nut, offers sturdiness and quality that GE products are known for. Before installation,...
Introducing the GE Drain Hose, specifically designed for washing machines. This essential accessory safely transports used water from your washer directly to your house drain, establishing an efficien...
This part is the replacement suspension rod and spring assembly for your washer. The rod is approximately 25 inches long and is sold individually. The suspension rod and spring works like a shock abso...
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Krista
January 23, 2020
My top load washer isn't spinning out properly. It won't get to it's highest speed and the timer will go from 19 min to 17 min to 18, back down to 17 and then say it's finished all in about 5 min and the clothes are still soaking wet.
For model number GTAS8655D0MC
Hello, Thank you for your question. Looking at your model number you would need to check the lid switch, and the timer. As well as ensure there is no clogging of the drain hose or drain pump. We hope this helps.
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This procedure was completely different from any other Tub Seal I've done and in my opinion needs 2 people. The first thing to note is that this seal must be removed from the bottom of the outer tub. Also, the top of this machine does not hinge in back. The typical clips are in front, but the back has 2 screws that must be removed. Since
... Read morethe wiring was too involved to completely separate the top from the base, I had to improvise a stand to hold the top while the rest of the process was completed - keep slack on all remaining connected wires. The motor, clutch and bearing plate must be removed from the bottom in order to access the Tub Seal. Below are the steps I did to complete the process: - Remove Control Panel Cover (rear) - Disconnect as many wire harness plugs as possible from Control Board (Note positions for reassembly - pictures work well) - Remove Pressure Switch - Disconnect Detergent and Softener dispense hoses from Machine Top - Rotate top 180 degrees (Flat-Spin) and position so no strain is on the still connected wires. - Remove Tub Cover - Remove Impeller (Agitator) from inside tub. - Remove Tub Nut - Note Left handed Threads (I used 1/2" Drive Impact) - Remove rear Cross Bar from cabinet (Cross Bar must be removed since tub will not fit through opening. Once removed it must be held in place or outer tub will fall) - Remove Inner Tub - This tub is heavy and fluid-balanced. Mine required 2 people to wobble and pull for removal. - Replace Cross bar to keep unit stable - Lay machine on its side - use care not stretch or pull any wires. - Remove motor, (Rotor and Stator) - Remove Clutch and wires - Loosen all wire ties (Use tiny screwdriver to release ties - Do Not remove the tie mount) securing wires to Bearing Plate and push wires to the outside edge of bearing Plate - Remove all screws securing Bearing Plate to Outer Tub - Use flat-head Screwdriver to gently pry Bearing Plate away from outer tub (Quite Heavy - Use Care) - Tub Seal is now exposed on top of Bearing Plate and can now be removed and replaced (Be sure to clean all seal mating surfaces and lubricate with dish soap) - Reverse this sequence in the exact order for re-assembly taking care to reconnect all wiring plugs and ground wires. - During Re-assembly I used Blue Loctite on all bolts securing the Clutch, Stator, and Rotor as I found several very loose on my machine
One comment is that the valve assembly should come with hose clamps. I had to run out to the store to purchase hose clamps to reattach the hoses to each valve.
