This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
$103.96
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This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$21.56
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This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$79.16
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If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.59
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This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
$27.65
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This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
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This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
$14.58
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If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$37.20
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This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
$116.11
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Questions And Answers for GSC25C6EYY02
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Russell
January 3, 2022
Hi! It just stopped making ice. I ran through all the diagnostics not the Tech Sheet and nothing is out of order as far as I can tell. I'm aware of the lower chassis wire problem, but haven't looked there yet. The ice mold was empty upon inspection. I manually filled it with water to see if it would cycle. Is there anything I need to do to reset "ice present" or do I just wait to see if the ice making motor churns it out after a while? How does it know it's time to discharge the ice? If the ice discharges, can I assume it's the water valve? Thanks!
For model number GSC25C6EYY02
Hello Russell, Thank you for your inquiry. We have included a link to our repair video on troubleshooting the ice maker that advises on how to test the water inlet valve and ice maker. We have also including a link to our video on how an ice maker works, which has additional ice maker information. Good luck with your repair. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8u__50qzZY
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Moenes
March 10, 2022
I would like to know the cubic feet of the freezer and of the refrigerator
Thanks
For model number GSC25C6EYY02
Hi Moenes,
Thank you for your question. The fresh food section of the refrigerator has a capacity of 14.3 cubic feet. The freezer section of the refrigerator as a capacity of 10.2 cubic feet. The total capacity of the refrigerator is 24.6 cubic feet. If you have any questions, please let us know. We are open 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Oscar
January 5, 2023
What can I do for adjust the temperature
For model number GSC25C6EYY02
Hello Oscar, Thank you for the question. We have left a link for the Owners Manual for this model and on page 4 it will show how to adjust the temperature. We hope this helps!
I am looking to purchase this refrigerator. Do you still make this model.
For model number GSC25C6EYY02
Hi Michael, Thank you for contacting PartSelect.com. We do not sell appliances sorry, just parts. You may have better luck contacting Whirlpool. We hope this helps!
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Hugo
July 27, 2021
Refrigerator is freezing the food that’s stored and packages. How can i fix that if the temperature is set like it states in the manual (37f/3c)? What part do i need? Thanks
For model number GSC25C6EYY02
Hello Hugo, Thank you for contacting us. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: defrost thermostat, thermistor, air diffuser or damper control, and the evaporator fan. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter works, there are videos available on our site. Hope this helps.
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read moret's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
