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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This refrigerator door bin is a genuine OEM replacement designed to fit many side-by-side refrigerator models. Compatible with brands like KitchenAid, Maytag, and Amana, it attaches to the interior do...
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack ...
This manufacturer-certified Pan Slide Track allows the drawer to slide in and out. It measures roughly 12 inches in length If this track is damaged or missing, you won't be able to move the drawer pro...
The Door Cam is a black plastic part which helps the door pivot shut while keeping the door and hinge in proper alignment. Lubricating this part upon installation may help it move easier. It attaches...
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer,...
This genuine OEM ice maker kit is designed to fit refrigerators that did not originally come with an ice maker. This kit contains everything needed to install the new ice maker on your refrigerator in...
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
The old tracks had been falling out consistently, causing the deli tray to fall on top of the food below it (which included the eggs, though none were broken since they were in a hard plastic container).
I had some difficulty getting the new track installed, however. All the parts lined up, but I just couldn't get the tracks t
... Read moreo slide into place. After some brute force and about 10 minutes, they were finally installed.
Best thing about it is that it doesn't appear that these tracks are coming out easily! Mission accomplished!
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is cl
... Read moreosing great now. Thanks for the quick part deliver.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
