GFU21M4AW2 Gibson Freezer - Instructions

UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it rattles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.

We loosened all the screws around the door and slid out the old gasket.
We then slid the new gasket behind the panel and screwed the screws back in place.

unplug it, pulled compressor start relay,which i thing it was the problem, but i replace bolt, very easy.

Bought a new
capacitor.

unplugged, removed old parts, replaced with new

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I used a small screwdriver to disconnect wires from old starter. I connected the overload and starter, two wires. I put the unit back in the keeper, plugged the unit in, turned up the thermostat and it's working beautifully.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.

i looked byhind the freezer , the mottor has the relay connected to it.i took out the relay, and i descovery something was loose inside, i decided to take to check out at sears to see if they have in stock that especific relay. they did not have, they could order, that's when i dicided to go ahead and looking for in the internet, good i found PARTSELECT,they had the part and i was very nice attended,they sent in 2 days i had fix my freezer. thanks PARTSELECT. gilmar couto.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

Inserted end pieces and remounted old refrigerator bar

hardest part was to remove deformities using a hair dryer. Working with hand after heating seemed to work but was not quick.
Loosen screws under old gasket. Screws hold gasket lip under the edge of the door liner. Remove old gasket. As door liner was brittle from age, I used silicone caulk across top of door behind flange, set lip of gasket in silicone and tighten screws. Did top and half was down the side, then did the bottom up, taking ank excess gasket and trying to distribute along straight side. Make sure door is plum and square on hinges, then close door. Turned freezer on and allow to cool to see if ice would form, before refilling with food.

The easiest way to replace this gasket is to remove the door from the freezer. Two bolts remove the top hinge and the door pops off. Setting it on sawhorses makes the job easy. In addition, I moved the door into the sunlight which made the gasket flexible and easy to work with.

Remove the screws under the gasket with a phillips screwdriver and lift the inner panel off the door. Clean the area when the gasket sits, put the new gasket in place and replace the inner panel and all the screws.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.