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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This high limit thermostat is used in a dryer and monitors the temperature to make sure it does not exceed 260 degrees Fahrenheit. When your dryer temperature reaches 260 it will cut it out and only c...
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
This dryer belt is one of the most important parts in a dryer and is what allows the dryer drum to spin/rotate. If the dryer belt is damaged or broken, the drum will not spin or will have difficulty i...
Discover the quality and reliability of genuine Frigidaire parts with this Thermal Limiter. Specially designed to protect from overheating, this non-resetable thermal fuse shuts off your dryer's heate...
This is a genuine replacement drum roller for a dryer. This part includes a roller which has an axle and two tri-rings. The dryer drum roller holds the drum in place while it rotates on the dryer supp...
This dryer thermal fuse is a critical safety component designed to protect the appliance from overheating. It automatically shuts off power to the motor or heating system if excessive temperatures are...
This drive motor includes the pulley for the dryer drum belt. The motor has reverse threads for the blower wheel. Please disconnect the power before starting your repair. This is a genuine OEM part.
This dryer rear air duct is designed to channel heated air from the burner or heating element into the drum and guide moisture- and lint-laden air toward the exhaust, ensuring optimal airflow and dryi...
This element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current and as a result, the wire heats up. The heat produced is u...
Keep your cooking experience as smooth as always with our authentic OEM Whirlpool Cooktop. This replacement part is the perfect solution to getting your stove back in top shape, ensuring your meals ar...
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2 questions answered by our experts.
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Deon
March 15, 2025
My Electroux dryer starts and stops 5/ 10 seconds later
For model number EFMC617STT0
Hi Deon,
Thank you for your question. If the lint filter, lint filter duct, the exhaust tube, and the exterior vent are clogged with lint, the dryer will overheat and the dryer will shut off. You will need to inspect these parts and give them a thorough cleaning if they are clogged with lint. We would also recommend checking the door switch and the the thermal fuses for continuity with a multimeter on the Rx1 setting. When testing the door switch, place both probes on each of the switch's terminals. You should receive a reading of infinity. While the probes are still touching the terminals, press in on and hold the switch. The reading should change to zero. If your switch fails either of the tests above, you will need a replacement door switch. When testing the thermal fuses, you should receive a reading of zero or infinity. If you get any other readings, you will need to replace the thermal fuses. We hope this helps!
My dryer knob would come On/light up, but not align the dry times to the options, it was stuck at 111 on the knob display, and stdby/start button flashing and would not turn On. Since then there is no time indicated on the dial knob, its blank, but the eco sign comes on when rotating the knob, dryer still flashing stdby/start and will not turn On. Is this a Knob Assembly PS11773329, Board Assembly PS1176615 or Main Board PS11766140 issue?
For model number EFMC617STT0
Hello Joe, thank you for the question. The issue seems to be with the main control board. We would suggest checking it. We hope this solves your problem!
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When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replac
... Read moreing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)
1. Loosened the 3 screws inside of the drum 2. Removed the entire back of the dryer (lots of screws) 3. Removed the old vent (there are 2 screws at the bottom that hold it in) 4. Install new vent (put the screws back in) 5. Close up back and proceed to put all of the screws back
I removed the front, top and back panels of the dryer, installed belt around drum and through the pulley system so the belt was snug, replaced all screws and panels, and done.
