DV203AGS (XAX) Samsung Dryer - Instructions

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

I YouTube it and there’s a step by step process on how to do it, took maybe 30 mins. If I can so can you

YouTube, YouTube, YouTube. I YouTubed many videos on how to take a dryer apart to reach the drum support roller and axle. After watching numerous videos, I settled on one that had my exact model of dryer. For my dryer, previous inputs said I needed two rollers to for my model. That is not the case. My model actually has 4 rollers, 2 in the front and two in the back. I ordered 2 initially but only needed 1 thankfully since only one roller was bad. Keep it simple stupid is how I got it done. Dryer's are pretty simple machines mechanically. Don't trash your noisy dryer. We bought ours in 2014 and it only recently started giving us issues. This is after 2 moves and being run daily for a family of 6. I'm glad I found partselect.com. They saved me a ton of money.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

Watched a video on utube, how to repair my 16 month old steam dryer. The hardest part was laying on my belly holding the spring loaded tensioner and slipping the belt on around the blower housing. Only cost me $23. Winning!

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

I ordered twice from this site. the thermistor was the first order, the fuse was the second order. Turns out the thermistor sent was the WRONG one. When I reassemble the dryer, after 20 minutes the thermistor sent burned up to a crispy chard. The ohms on the wrong part was 12ohms. per the dryer diagnostics the thermistor should have been =<1 ohm. I put in the original part and it worked. The fuse did the trick. the thermistor, not so much. Lesson to be learned is to not rely on this sites parts compatibility information. Look at the specs for your dryer from the manufacturer.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

Dryer would not start but electronics were working.

Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken.
Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.

Ordered replacement wheel/arm.
One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.