DGIJ Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Catch broke, door wouldn't stay closed.
Used a screwdriver to pop out broken piece. Used pliers to snap in new one.
Parts Used:
-
Dianne from Kansas City, MO
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
72 of 77 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Gas flame turns off after a while. No more heat.
Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.
The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.
This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.
This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.
The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.
This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.
This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.
Parts Used:
-
Giuseppe from San Francisco, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
22 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Not heat from the dryer
First of all, let me thank your wonder web site and service.
Here is the step-by-step procedure:
Unplugged the power.
Accessed the heater assembly from the front left lower corner.
Turned off the small gas valve.
Unscrewed the copper nut connecting the small gas valve and the heater assembly.
Disconnected the 3 wire connectors.
Unscrewed 2 screws under the heater assembly.
Took out the heater assembly.
Unscrewed the screw for the igniter assembly.
Installed the new igniter assembly. Be very careful with the M shaped coil. I broke a new one. That is why I have order the same part twice. But it still cost me less for hiring a tech or buying a new dryer.
Carefully put the heater assembly back into it position.
Connected the gas connector.
Secured the heater assembly to the bottom of the dryer with 2 screws.
Connected 3 wire connectors.
Turned on the small gas valve.
Plugged in and ran a test.
It worked!!.
Here is the step-by-step procedure:
Unplugged the power.
Accessed the heater assembly from the front left lower corner.
Turned off the small gas valve.
Unscrewed the copper nut connecting the small gas valve and the heater assembly.
Disconnected the 3 wire connectors.
Unscrewed 2 screws under the heater assembly.
Took out the heater assembly.
Unscrewed the screw for the igniter assembly.
Installed the new igniter assembly. Be very careful with the M shaped coil. I broke a new one. That is why I have order the same part twice. But it still cost me less for hiring a tech or buying a new dryer.
Carefully put the heater assembly back into it position.
Connected the gas connector.
Secured the heater assembly to the bottom of the dryer with 2 screws.
Connected 3 wire connectors.
Turned on the small gas valve.
Plugged in and ran a test.
It worked!!.
Parts Used:
-
Hui from Chicago, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
19 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken door latch receptical
-
Joseph from North Chatham, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
19 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not ignite
Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body
Parts Used:
-
David from Murrieta, CA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
no heat in the dryer
unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.
Parts Used:
-
Joy from Lakeville, MN
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Door Latch broke and fell out
remove new latch from package, insert into dryer door frame push into place with thumb until it snaps into place. Done!
Parts Used:
-
James from ALLENSTOWN, NH
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
11 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
knowing how to open the top
I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.
Parts Used:
-
Gary from Arlington Heights, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The catch (female part) on the dryer developed a tiny crack. The door latch (male part) could not fit securely so the door would not stay closed.
I watched a You Tube video first. I used a screwdriver to loosen the part that was attached to the dryer. I pulled it out of the dryer with pliers. I pushed the new part into place. The old latch worked fine so I did not replace it.
Parts Used:
-
Everette R from ANNISTON, AL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Noisy squeaky dryer
Main problem was the bearing, replaced the belt and felt seal as well
The video instruction was very helpful
Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude
Dryer running great now
All parts from Partselect.com
Have ordered from them before and would order from them again
The video instruction was very helpful
Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude
Dryer running great now
All parts from Partselect.com
Have ordered from them before and would order from them again
Parts Used:
-
Dave from SAN FRANCISCO, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
My igniter seemed to be bad, but I really didn't know for sure. After asking advice from one of the subscribers at partselect, I decided to give the repair a try.
The appliance is gas, which made me a little nervous. However, knowing that I had the gas off, I carefully began disassembly. The burner unit is a very simple set up and within a few minutes I had the entire assembly out and noticed that in fact the igniter was broken. I ordered a new one from partselect.com and it was delivered in 2 days! The worst part of the assembly was when I accidentally bumped the new igniter against the underside of the dryer and broke the brand new one!!!..So, I ordered a second igniter and 2 days later installed it in about 30 minutes.
Parts Used:
-
randall from Athens, TN
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
4 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Door latch receiver broke
-
sandra from PLYMOUTH, MN
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken door clip
Literally pop it in the small opening. Super easy and works perfectly now!
Parts Used:
-
Gregory from SAN RAFAEL, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The igniter glowed red and the gas did not come on !
Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again
Parts Used:
-
stefan from alpena, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer does not start
Followed video instructions, easy installation. Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem. Plan to take back off and check belt, etc before ordering another part.
Parts Used:
-
Anna from FLORENCE, KY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!