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Model Number Locations
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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This authentic, white Drum Bearing Slide, also known as the bearing drum slide, glide, or pad, is a plastic, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for ...
This part is the replacement high-limit thermostat or safety thermostat for your dryer. The high-limit thermostat is found on the upper right-hand side of the heater housing, and it cuts off power to ...
This fastening nut secures components firmly in place, helping maintain proper alignment and safe operation. It is commonly used as a replacement when original hardware is stripped, lost, or damaged.
This part is connected to the rear bulkhead of the dryer with screws. It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
This is considered a high limit thermostat. Rating - L210 This thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this pie...
Are you struggling with uneven heat distribution while cooking on your GE range? Does it leave one side of your pan hot, while the other side remains barely warmed? Don't worry! We've got the answer t...
Enhance the performance of your dryer with this genuine GE Term Block Cover. This vital component helps to connect the house electrical to the dryer wiring harness. Remember to unplug the dryer before...
The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a pow
... Read moreer fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. Wh
... Read moreen the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm. I replaced it and the unit worked.
