CDT858P3V1D1 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I found it online! There were step by step instructions that were easy to understand. I have never had to do anything like this in my life, only recently had to start doing everything around the house myself due to husband's illness.
The repairman came out, charged me $100 to determine what the dishwasher needed & left me with the part number. He was going to charge me $389 to install the part and they were over charging for the part. The repairman suggested I just get a new dishwasher.
I ordered the part from the website at 1/2 the price that the other place charges and found it on line. With the step by step instructions and the online page, I successfully installed it MYSELF. Saved me a ton of $$.
I LOVE the website
Thank You!!!!

Replaced floating seal. Un plugged and Pulled washer out from the counter and laid on its left side. Pull pump out of seal by hand. Straight screwdriver to lever seal out of fitting. Clean hole and wipe seal then push into hole. Reinsert pump reverse install.
To make it easier I previously extended the water supply hose to nearly 8 feet so did not have to disconnect it.

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

Process of elimination and a visit to my local repair store told me it was wise to try the tub gasket, and according to partselect.com, it solved the problem a majority of the time. My local repair dealer agreed: Try it. They agreed because for them to replace a lower door gasket AND the $10 tub gasket... if they came out, the service call and parts would equal half the cost to replace the whole dishwasher. So I bought a tub gasket from partselect.com and replaced the old one. It worked, it was easy, so if your same make & model is leaking? Try it first. That's my advice.

Replaced old gasket with new one. More difficult than expected, because new gasket was much stiffer than old one. Also, the yellow centering spot on gasket (to line up with top latch) was nearly impossible to see. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem for me, so money was wasted. Bought new dishwasher.

It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.

Simply pick the basket up to slide wheels onto axles and push in until they lock in place.

the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.

there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher

the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]

it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel

I removed the old roller wheels and the new roller wheels snapped together and the simple instructions made the repair quick and simple..

Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.

Bottom rack came complete with all racks. Only had to transfer the (2) side bumper guards,

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Parts diagram shows Striker can be popped out with screwdriver. Not true. It has a screw bolting it internally. Impossible to get to unless you disassemble the entire door. We took a power drill and small drill bit and bore it out like a cavity in a tooth. Needle nose pliers to extract the screw. Pretend your a dentist. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Replacement fit tight. A+

The Control panel wire harness got caught in the door hinge, got pinched and the Red wire got severed, I cut through the black protective mesh and reconnected the red wire, to prevent the wires from being damaged again I moved the wire harness over more to the left and secured it with tape.