CC3531WUA Crosley Range - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

removed old clips and remaining parts of old seal...new part already had clips attached, so just snapped them into holes in oven door.

It was very simple, pull off the old one, then I took some pliers and pulled out the fasteners. Took new gasket from bag and it just snapped into place.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

My husband did it. I was not there to see it. He said it took less than one minute, just snapped in and worked beautifully.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

ordered wrong part, called, was sent return number, sent part back, account credited ... easy return policy ... friendly people, good job

Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.

I took pliers to get the old one off, and popped the new one back in its place, and it fit perfect.

Used pliers to remove clips and old seal. Snap in new seal. DONE! Less than 5 mins.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

I have worked in maintenance field most of my adult life and all aspects and to change the oven door gasket was no challenge what so ever. It took longer to find my needle nose pliers to remove the old gasket clips and then re-install the new gasket. Maybe 10 minutes total

finished removing door seal, used pliers to remove old securing studs. positioned new seal and pushed securing studs into existing holes and was done.