AGR5330BAS3 Amana Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.

The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.

Google the error code that the range was displaying and found others with the same symptoms. Then found several people that had fixed the problem by replacing the oven sensor. I then ordered the sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

pulled out the stove and removed bottom drip plates to access the old ignitor. Removed 2 screws after unplugging the two wire ignitor. fished the the two wires thru back of stove and plugged them in where old wires were. put the 2 screws back into the new ignitor and tested before replacing drip plates. been cooking in the oven ever since, no problem.. Part was a perfect replacement.

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

I removed the oven door first, then pulled the unit away from the wall being careful of the floors. I unplugged the oven, and turned off the gas feed. I worked on the thermostat first. I followed the wiring from the inside of the unit to the back panel, and disconnected the cable. Two philips head screws held in place - swapped it out for the new one - and there you go. Some insulation might also poke out when your snaking the wired through, so just tuck that back in as best you can.
Then I moved onto the igniter. I followed the wiring, and disconnected it at the back panel. The igniter was held in place with two hex bolts ( I can't remember the exact sizing since I just kept going down in sizes until it fit snugly on the bolt head). The metal plate they bolt into was warped, but with a little persuasion from some pliers it was easy to bend for better access to the bolts. Be careful if you are doing this since the bracket is attached to the burner tube and too much torque is always bad for hollow metal parts. Attach and wire up the new igniter, still being careful to replace any insulation that creeps out.
Plug the unit back in.
Turn on the gas feed.
Push it back into place.
Replace the oven door - and there you go.
I had also purchased an oven thermometer that hangs from the wire racking. I had the oven on at 350 for 30 minutes and the temperature never really swayed more than 15 degrees. It also heated up substantially faster.

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

Replace two igniters that were not working. Did not fix the problem. Swapped wire positions from Spark Module and noted that the problem followed the igniter positions. Replaced Spark Module. Problem solved. Procedure required disconnecting a/c power, removing four screws, removing igniter wires from old module and reconnecting them to new module. Reinstalled new Spark Module in range. Reconnected a/c power. Test successful. Total time: 20 minutes.

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

Found the part with ease due to diagrams. Went together easy also because if company supplied diagrams. 2 screws later it slid right in and a lot of cleaning and now the range is like new again.

Removed to igniter, plugged in the new one and I was don’t. Do use care not to touch with bare skin the part that gets hot so you don’t get skin oils on the igniter that can cause it to burn up.