867777841 Kenmore Furnace - Instructions

removed spray head, pulled motor/pump assembly. took apart impeller housing and then removed motor and pulled impeller off its shaft, the most difficult part was actually pulling off impeller from the splined shaft. I actually broke old impeller in the process. The good thing is that the new seal came assembled with new impeller so that was not a problem. After re-assembling everything it worked fine and still works for a week since repair.

The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out if this was the part I needed or not. After studying the inerds of the dishwasher door and the detergent cup mechanism, it seemed like this part would do the trick.

Here's how the mechanism works . . . the plastic stopper at the end of the bi-metallic strip latches the detergent cup in place. If these strips are bent away from the spring mechanism / plastic cam enough, the stopper will not latch on the cam (as was the case with mine). So, I needed to replace the bi-metallic strip. This part comes along with a new cam and spring.

The actual replacement of the parts is simple. The parts come with pretty good installation instructions.

Good luck . . .

Disassembled my dishwasher and found the rubber on the impeller seal had deteriorated causing the leak. If this is all that is wrong with your unit, it is well worth the repair attempt. Find the service manual pdf on servicematters (dot) com for detailed instructions on removing and re-installing the part. The only thing I have to add is the on my first try installing the part, I still had a leak. I may have just had the motor/impeller slightly mis-aligned (the water tight seal is actually the carbon disk on the impeller rubbing against the carbon disk on the seal seat in the pump housing). On the second attempt I used silicone to glue the 'seal seat' into the pump housing (carbon side out). After waiting a day for the silicone to dry, the dishwasher ran without leaking. It continues to be leak free several weeks later.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

followed the scematic on the wesbite that i used to i.d. the repair part needed. removed the front door outside cover (8 screws) removed the bi-metal switch (2 screws), did not need to replace the door latch or spring. replaced the switch and the front door cover and ran the dishwasher to test the new switch. worked fine and has been working fine.

First, let me say that the parts arrived really fast,--thnaks for the great service!

First I removed the screws inside the door edges. This releases the front door panels allowing access to the detergent cup parts. Then I removed the old cam return spring, the old cam (and the old spring underneath the cam) and the old bi-metal switch. The instructions were pretty clear on how to install the new style return spring and new cam. Then I installed the new bi-metal switch.

Really, the hardest part of the whole repair is getting the door panels back in the proper place so that the screw holes are aligned. That probably took longer than the rest of the repair job.

The new parts have the detergent cup working like new again. Very satisfying repair!

Typically when the detergent is not being despensed during the wash cycle, the bi-metal switch is bad (they don't tend to last forever). I took the 4 lower screws out from the inside of the dishwasher door,, unscrewed the bi-metal switch, and screwed in the new switch. I also decided to replace the metal spring for the dish as well, which took the majority of the time. Once you get the idea of how that spring is wound in there, the install goes pretty quickly.