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2550
2550 (Type 7) Poulan Chainsaw - Overview
Sections of the 2550
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SUB 5636
This part number matches the current model number 2550
PartSelect #: PS1249357
Manufacturer #: 2550
No Longer Available
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Fuel Line
PartSelect #: PS9472280
Manufacturer #: 530069247
This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged...
$6.62
In Stock
Engine Fuel Filter
PartSelect #: PS9285148
Manufacturer #: 530095646
This fuel filter is for lawn and garden equipment engines.
Fuel filter cleans the fuel before it reaches the carburetor.
Work in a well-ventilated area when installing this part. Drain the fuel...
$4.99
In Stock
Tank Purge Line
PartSelect #: PS9472264
Manufacturer #: 530069216
This part is the replacement tank/purge line for your outdoor power equipment. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The tank/purge line returns excess fuel from the carburetor to the ...
$6.21
In Stock
Primer Bulb Kit
PartSelect #: PS9472698
Manufacturer #: 530071835
This primer bulb, also referred to as a purge bulb, is in the fuel system of handheld outdoor power equipment. Located on or near the carburetor, it assists in drawing fuel into the carburetor when yo...
$8.71
In Stock
Spark Plug (Rcj-8Y)
PartSelect #: PS9484192
Manufacturer #: 952030150
This genuine Spark Plug, RCJ8Y, is sold individually, comprised of steel and ceramic, and is white and silver in color. The function of the spark plug is to ignite a mixture of air and fuel in the com...
No Longer Available
Fuel Line Fitting
PartSelect #: PS9469715
Manufacturer #: 530023877
The Fuel Line Fitting is a plastic part which attaches two pieces of fuel line together. If broken due to damage/fatigue, there may be a leak and the part must be replaced. Installation is rated as "E...
$4.99
In Stock
Fuel Cap Assembly
PartSelect #: PS9982262
Manufacturer #: 580940901
This part is the replacement fuel cap assembly for your chainsaw. It is made of black plastic and is sold individually. The fuel cap prevents fuel from spilling out of the chainsaw and prevents debris...
$6.21
In Stock
Foam-Air Filter
PartSelect #: PS9470926
Manufacturer #: 530037793
This air filter is a genuine OEM part that is often used within chainsaws and is compatible with several different models. Sold as an individual part, this filter is solely the foam filter, and does n...
$4.99
In Stock
Kit - Bar Adjust
PartSelect #: PS9472355
Manufacturer #: 530069611
This Chain Bar Adjuster kit is a kit which contains all necessary hardware for adjusting a chain bar on a chain saw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver, wrench set and socket s...
$4.99
In Stock
Nut - Bar Mounting
PartSelect #: PS9469166
Manufacturer #: 530015917
The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
$3.99
In Stock
Carb Gasket/Diaphragm
PartSelect #: PS9472427
Manufacturer #: 530069844
Note: The beige piece pictured has been redesigned. It no longer has the four corner holes. It now only has 2 corner holes at a diagonal.
$18.68
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 2550
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Common Symptoms of the 2550
[Viewing 2 of 2]Will Not Start
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Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
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Deterioration of fuel line system
Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find
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the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark
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Parts Used:
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Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ... Read more ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ... Read more ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
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Parts Used:
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Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
29 of 37 people
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Fuel and Purge lines had disintegrated
Disassembled it and cleaned fuel tank. Cut and ran new fuel lines, installed filter and reassembled. Parts fit perfectly and got running after not running for over 20 years.
Parts Used:
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Casper from ERATH, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 24 people
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