2500LE Poulan Chainsaw - Overview
Sections of the 2500LE
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Fuel Line (25" Length)
PartSelect #: PS9008183
Manufacturer #: 530069247
This 25-inch fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor, ensuring proper engine operation. Made from durable clear plastic, it is designed to withstand regular use but may become clogged o...
$12.81
In Stock
Engine Fuel Filter
PartSelect #: PS9285148
Manufacturer #: 530095646
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this esse...
$9.62
In Stock
Purge Line
PartSelect #: PS9008180
Manufacturer #: 530069216
This is the Genuine Craftsman replacement part. It is made out of Flexible Rubber and is Sold Individually. The purpose of the 530069216 Tank Purge Line is to return the excess fuel that is in the car...
$17.55
In Stock
Kit - Bar Adjust
PartSelect #: PS9285118
Manufacturer #: 530069611
This Chain Bar Adjuster kit is a kit which contains all necessary hardware for adjusting a chain bar on a chain saw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver, wrench set and socket s...
$12.05
In Stock
Nut
PartSelect #: PS9004113
Manufacturer #: 530015917
The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
$6.72
In Stock
Chain Catcher
PartSelect #: PS9004067
Manufacturer #: 530029850
This is a genuine manufacturer approved replacement part designed for use with chainsaws. This part is an important safety feature because it prevents the chainsaw chain from flying off the bar if it ...
$9.62
In Stock
Adjust Pin-Bar 36/41
PartSelect #: PS9003373
Manufacturer #: 530015826
This Bar Pin Adjuster is an OEM part used to adjust the tension on the bar, which loosens or tightens the chain. It attaches to the slot in the bar, and the chainsaw bar adjusting screw. Installation ...
$7.65
In Stock
Clutch Drum
PartSelect #: PS9007596
Manufacturer #: 530047061
This is a genuine OEM sourced component which is specially made for Poulan and Husqvarna chainsaws. The are two functions of the clutch drum assembly. It encases the clutch and when the engine gets up...
$26.35
In Stock
Scrm4.8-1.6x
PartSelect #: PS16352326
Manufacturer #: 530016153
This is a genuine OEM sourced replacement part designed for use with Poulan chainsaws. It is used to attach the cylinder shield to the main body of the chainsaw. This screw is made out of metal and it...
$6.72
In Stock
Flange
PartSelect #: PS12628247
Manufacturer #: 530049700
This is an authentic OEM sourced replacement component which is specially designed for Craftsman chainsaws. It fits between the carburetor and engine cylinder, please make sure to refer to the appropr...
No Longer Available
Rope Kit
PartSelect #: PS9008182
Manufacturer #: 530069232
The chainsaw starter rope is a three-foot-long white rope that is approved by the original equipment manufacturer, and which wraps around the recoil pulley and is pulled to start the engine. Installat...
$7.65
In Stock
Common Symptoms of the 2500LE
[Viewing 3 of 3]Will Not Start
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Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
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Chain comes off guide bar
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![Replacing the Fuel Line (25" Length)](https://img.youtube.com/vi/TJyUt4IFwD0/maxresdefault.jpg "Replacing the Fuel Line (25" Length)")
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Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ... Read more ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ... Read more ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
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Parts Used:
![](/9008183-1-S-Husqvarna-530069247-Fuel-Line-25-amp-quot-Length.jpg "Fuel Line (25" Length) – Part Number: 530069247")
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Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
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Fuel line deterioration and carb overhaul
The machine was offered for free on FB marketplace. The person tried a rebuild of the carb, but could not figure out how to connect the fuel line, which feeds from the tank above the carb. I couldn’t either, so I went to a local parts dealer, who could not find a diameter the same size (it’s tiny). I assumed there may have been a fitting
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in the tank, but if so, it was absent. The only parts that were found in the tank: a large filter in a 3/4”piece of larger tubing and this tiny fuel line was inserted into the other end. The resulting arrangement was long enough to reach the hole in the tank.Since the machine looked spectacularly clean, I used these parts to make it run.
1. Using diagonal cutters, I cut a very sharply angled end on the small line.
2. I generously lubricated the new line and the hole in the tank. I then took angled end of the new line and inserted it into the hole. Using a screwing type motion , I slowly worked it into the tank, using generous amounts of lubricant, until the line was far enough into the tank to grab from the fill hole with needle nose pliers. I then pulled and twisted until the line came out of the top of the tank.
3. I cut the angled end square at this point. I then inserted the filter into the larger tubing the cut about an inch longer than the filter Barb.I then lubed the larger line and the smaller line and pulled the line back into the tank from the bottom until the filter laid flat on the bottom of the tank.
4. At this point, I cut the end of the small line so that about an inch protruded from the bottom of the tank. I then re-lubed that line and inserted into a well lubricated length of larger line of sufficient length to reach the inlet on the carb.
About the carb: the donor of the machine had apparently attempted a rebuild. While it was very clean, he assembled it incorrectly. The metering diaphragm was pinched and he left off two of the four screws which held it together. I disassembled it, and using the correct parts assembled in the correct order, (there are parts for multiple applications included in the kit), mounted it back to the machine, and after about six or eight pulls, it roared to life. I did not get into the jets etc, because they seemed to work. This Walbro carb only has one inlet and no purge bulb, and after adjusting the carb it starts on the third pull every time using the choke as it was designed to.
1. Using diagonal cutters, I cut a very sharply angled end on the small line.
2. I generously lubricated the new line and the hole in the tank. I then took angled end of the new line and inserted it into the hole. Using a screwing type motion , I slowly worked it into the tank, using generous amounts of lubricant, until the line was far enough into the tank to grab from the fill hole with needle nose pliers. I then pulled and twisted until the line came out of the top of the tank.
3. I cut the angled end square at this point. I then inserted the filter into the larger tubing the cut about an inch longer than the filter Barb.I then lubed the larger line and the smaller line and pulled the line back into the tank from the bottom until the filter laid flat on the bottom of the tank.
4. At this point, I cut the end of the small line so that about an inch protruded from the bottom of the tank. I then re-lubed that line and inserted into a well lubricated length of larger line of sufficient length to reach the inlet on the carb.
About the carb: the donor of the machine had apparently attempted a rebuild. While it was very clean, he assembled it incorrectly. The metering diaphragm was pinched and he left off two of the four screws which held it together. I disassembled it, and using the correct parts assembled in the correct order, (there are parts for multiple applications included in the kit), mounted it back to the machine, and after about six or eight pulls, it roared to life. I did not get into the jets etc, because they seemed to work. This Walbro carb only has one inlet and no purge bulb, and after adjusting the carb it starts on the third pull every time using the choke as it was designed to.
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Parts Used:
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Edward from FREDERICKSBRG, VA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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installing fuel through fuel tank wall
To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t
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hat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.
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Parts Used:
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RICHARD from BROCKTON, MA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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