22HB Husqvarna Leaf Blower / Vacuum - Overview
Models starting with 22HB
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Fuel Line (25" Length)
PartSelect #: PS9008183
Manufacturer #: 530069247
This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged...
$12.81
In Stock
Engine Fuel Filter
PartSelect #: PS9285148
Manufacturer #: 530095646
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this esse...
$9.62
In Stock
Fuel Cap
PartSelect #: PS9005717
Manufacturer #: 530014347
The Fuel Cap with retainer, often simply known just as the fuel cap, keeps fuel from splashing out of your tank and debris from entering it. Black in color, it is sold individually and made of plastic...
$12.81
In Stock
Walbro Gasket/Diaphragm Kit
PartSelect #: PS9285128
Manufacturer #: 530069844
This is an authentic OEM replacement kit for use with lawn and garden equipment. Each kit includes the carburetor, cylinder, crankcase, and muffler gaskets. The carburetor gasket seals the area betwee...
$32.11
In Stock
Rope Kit
PartSelect #: PS9008182
Manufacturer #: 530069232
The chainsaw starter rope is a three-foot-long white rope that is approved by the original equipment manufacturer, and which wraps around the recoil pulley and is pulled to start the engine. Installat...
$8.01
In Stock
Screw Catcher
PartSelect #: PS9362595
Manufacturer #: 530015814
This is a standard hardware which has multiple applications based on your tool. It is sourced from original equipment manufacturer for use with a variety of power equipment. Please refer to diagrams f...
$6.72
In Stock
Diaphragm
PartSelect #: PS8997649
Manufacturer #: 503896701
This metering diaphragm is an original part for use in edgers, blowers, trimmers, and chainsaws made by Poulan, Paramount, Weed Eater, Husqvarna, and Jonsered. It fits between the metering diaphragm g...
$66.93
In Stock
Diaphragm Pump
PartSelect #: PS8992825
Manufacturer #: 504130807
This fuel pump diaphragm, also called a membrane or a gasket, is what helps pump fuel from the tank to the engine of your gas-powered lawn equipment. It is normally found attached to the carburetor as...
$48.17
In Stock
Starter Handle
PartSelect #: PS9006394
Manufacturer #: 530027569
This is an authentic part that is specially manufactured for use with Craftsman handheld lawn and garden equipment. The starter grip attaches to the rope to provide a user with a comfortable grip to p...
$6.90
In Stock
Washer-Flywheel
PartSelect #: PS9002019
Manufacturer #: 530015127
This is an original replacement part manufactured for use with chainsaws and leaf blowers. The washer is commonly used to disperse the pressure put on the flywheel by a nut across a wider surface area...
$6.72
In Stock
Tube
PartSelect #: PS9005402
Manufacturer #: 530094425
This is a genuine replacement part sourced from the original manufacturer for use with gutter cleaner kits for blowers. The plastic extension tube is used to extend the reach of the gutter cleaning ki...
$17.76
In Stock
Gasket Diaphragm Kit
PartSelect #: PS10044036
Manufacturer #: D10-WAT
This is a Genuine OEM rebuild kit designed for Walbro Carburetors. This kit contains all the necessary Gaskets and Diaphragms needed to rebuild your carburetor. If your engine runs sluggish or it dies...
$30.81
In Stock
Common Symptoms of models starting with 22HB
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Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
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Fuel line deterioration and carb overhaul
The machine was offered for free on FB marketplace. The person tried a rebuild of the carb, but could not figure out how to connect the fuel line, which feeds from the tank above the carb. I couldn’t either, so I went to a local parts dealer, who could not find a diameter the same size (it’s tiny). I assumed there may have been a fitting
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in the tank, but if so, it was absent. The only parts that were found in the tank: a large filter in a 3/4”piece of larger tubing and this tiny fuel line was inserted into the other end. The resulting arrangement was long enough to reach the hole in the tank.Since the machine looked spectacularly clean, I used these parts to make it run.
1. Using diagonal cutters, I cut a very sharply angled end on the small line.
2. I generously lubricated the new line and the hole in the tank. I then took angled end of the new line and inserted it into the hole. Using a screwing type motion , I slowly worked it into the tank, using generous amounts of lubricant, until the line was far enough into the tank to grab from the fill hole with needle nose pliers. I then pulled and twisted until the line came out of the top of the tank.
3. I cut the angled end square at this point. I then inserted the filter into the larger tubing the cut about an inch longer than the filter Barb.I then lubed the larger line and the smaller line and pulled the line back into the tank from the bottom until the filter laid flat on the bottom of the tank.
4. At this point, I cut the end of the small line so that about an inch protruded from the bottom of the tank. I then re-lubed that line and inserted into a well lubricated length of larger line of sufficient length to reach the inlet on the carb.
About the carb: the donor of the machine had apparently attempted a rebuild. While it was very clean, he assembled it incorrectly. The metering diaphragm was pinched and he left off two of the four screws which held it together. I disassembled it, and using the correct parts assembled in the correct order, (there are parts for multiple applications included in the kit), mounted it back to the machine, and after about six or eight pulls, it roared to life. I did not get into the jets etc, because they seemed to work. This Walbro carb only has one inlet and no purge bulb, and after adjusting the carb it starts on the third pull every time using the choke as it was designed to.
1. Using diagonal cutters, I cut a very sharply angled end on the small line.
2. I generously lubricated the new line and the hole in the tank. I then took angled end of the new line and inserted it into the hole. Using a screwing type motion , I slowly worked it into the tank, using generous amounts of lubricant, until the line was far enough into the tank to grab from the fill hole with needle nose pliers. I then pulled and twisted until the line came out of the top of the tank.
3. I cut the angled end square at this point. I then inserted the filter into the larger tubing the cut about an inch longer than the filter Barb.I then lubed the larger line and the smaller line and pulled the line back into the tank from the bottom until the filter laid flat on the bottom of the tank.
4. At this point, I cut the end of the small line so that about an inch protruded from the bottom of the tank. I then re-lubed that line and inserted into a well lubricated length of larger line of sufficient length to reach the inlet on the carb.
About the carb: the donor of the machine had apparently attempted a rebuild. While it was very clean, he assembled it incorrectly. The metering diaphragm was pinched and he left off two of the four screws which held it together. I disassembled it, and using the correct parts assembled in the correct order, (there are parts for multiple applications included in the kit), mounted it back to the machine, and after about six or eight pulls, it roared to life. I did not get into the jets etc, because they seemed to work. This Walbro carb only has one inlet and no purge bulb, and after adjusting the carb it starts on the third pull every time using the choke as it was designed to.
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Parts Used:
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Edward from FREDERICKSBRG, VA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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installing fuel through fuel tank wall
To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t
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hat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.
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Parts Used:
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RICHARD from BROCKTON, MA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Split fuel line driving brother-in-law to frustration
Seven screw, three case cover, two air cleaner, two carb mounting, pulled carb, drained tank, pulled old fuel line, treaded new one in, wire to thread, thread to angle cut fuel line. Reassemble, test, sharpen chain, retest…not exactly a doityourselfer, graduate degree in mechanical/industrial engineering and former medium/heavy mechanica
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l. Get fuel line on carb prior to reassembly, line may need some stretching with a tapered punch.
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Parts Used:
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Howard from UNICOI, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers
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