Models > 2055

2055 - Overview

Models starting with 2055

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Frame Assembly – Part Number: 2055
Frame Assembly
This part number matches the current model number 2055
PartSelect #: PS8913060
Manufacturer #: 2055
  No Longer Available
Pin – Part Number: 2055
Pin
This part number matches the current model number 2055
PartSelect #: PS11947128
Manufacturer #: 2055
  No Longer Available
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Blower Wheel Clamp – Part Number: WP312967
Blower Wheel Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11740752
Manufacturer #: WP312967
This blower wheel clamp, used in a clothes dryer, is a clamp that holds the blower wheel to the motor shaft. This part helps hold the blower wheel in place to function easily and properly. If your clo...
$13.56
  In Stock
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Broil Element - 240V – Part Number: WP660579
Broil Element - 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect #: PS11743368
Manufacturer #: WP660579
This broil element is found on the roof of the oven and has push-on terminals.
$82.94
  In Stock
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Fuel Line – Part Number: 530069247
Fuel Line
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS9472280
Manufacturer #: 530069247
This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged...
$6.36
  In Stock
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Engine Fuel Filter – Part Number: 530095646
Engine Fuel Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS9285148
Manufacturer #: 530095646
This fuel filter is for lawn and garden equipment engines. Fuel filter cleans the fuel before it reaches the carburetor. Work in a well-ventilated area when installing this part. Drain the fuel...
$5.09
  In Stock
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Tank Purge Line – Part Number: 530069216
Tank Purge Line
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS9472264
Manufacturer #: 530069216
This part is the replacement tank/purge line for your outdoor power equipment. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The tank/purge line returns excess fuel from the carburetor to the ...
$6.36
  In Stock
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Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
Hex Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738304
Manufacturer #: WP112432
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts an...
$7.76
  In Stock
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Primer Bulb Kit – Part Number: 530071835
Primer Bulb Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS9472698
Manufacturer #: 530071835
$8.91
  In Stock
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Spark Plug (Rcj-8Y) – Part Number: 952030150
Spark Plug (Rcj-8Y)
PartSelect #: PS9484192
Manufacturer #: 952030150
This genuine Spark Plug, RCJ8Y, is sold individually, comprised of steel and ceramic, and is white and silver in color. The function of the spark plug is to ignite a mixture of air and fuel in the com...   No Longer Available
Fuel Line Fitting – Part Number: 530023877
Fuel Line Fitting
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS9469715
Manufacturer #: 530023877
The Fuel Line Fitting is a plastic part which attaches two pieces of fuel line together. If broken due to damage/fatigue, there may be a leak and the part must be replaced. Installation is rated as "E...
$5.09
  In Stock
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Fuel Cap Assembly – Part Number: 580940901
Fuel Cap Assembly
PartSelect #: PS9982262
Manufacturer #: 580940901
This part is the replacement fuel cap assembly for your chainsaw. It is made of black plastic and is sold individually. The fuel cap prevents fuel from spilling out of the chainsaw and prevents debris...
$6.36
  In Stock
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Foam-Air Filter – Part Number: 530037793
Foam-Air Filter
PartSelect #: PS9470926
Manufacturer #: 530037793
$5.09
  In Stock
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Nut-Lock, Ni – Part Number: 3296-42
Nut-Lock, Ni
PartSelect #: PS8953555
Manufacturer #: 3296-42
This Ni Nut-Lock, or Nylock Nut, is a Silver 1/4 x 20 metal nut. Sold individually, it can be adjusted using a wrench or socket and torque wrench to the manufacturer specfications, and is used to secu...
$2.99
  In Stock
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Common Symptoms of models starting with 2055

[Viewing 9 of 9]
Noisy
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Takes too long to dry
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No heat or not enough heat
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Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Deterioration of fuel line system
Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark
Parts Used:
Primer Bulb Kit Fuel Line Tank Purge Line Foam-Air Filter Fuel Line Fitting Engine Fuel Filter
  • Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
80 of 88 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burnt out broiler element
Turned off power to range because I was scared. Unscrewed broiler element, pulled part forward and pulled off wires that were attached to the back, attached wires to new element, pushed it back in place, screwed it back on to oven. Cooked my bruchette!
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • Starla from Vashon, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fall into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
Parts Used:
Fuel Line Tank Purge Line Engine Fuel Filter
  • Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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