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Dryer wouldn't heat
Since the heating coil is right behind the front door I had to remove all panels starting with the back one to get to it. The back has a lot of tech screws that I removed with the nut driver. The side panels were removed with a phillips screwdriver. The top is held in place with the other panels. The base was shifted away from the front and I released the heating coil case with 4 screws in the front and was able to pull it out of the top to replace it. I cut the old one out with wire cutters and snaked the new one through the ceramic insulators. I was careful not to touch the new one without gloves because the oil from your hands can burn them out more quickly. I screwed the new ones to the contact points while trying not to stretch it too much. I vacuumed the whole dryer out before putting it back together.
Old infinity switch on electric rangetop did not work correctly
Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch. NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795! I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!
Surface Element switch faulty with no control on heat
Turned power completely off. Removed knob from front panel. Opened range top cover. Removed 3 screws from aluminum panel protector behind the element switch. Once panel is removed you can see the switch element. Remove 2 screws from the front panel that connects to the element switch. Remove the old element and replace with new element making sure that each of the 5 wires on the old element is transferred one by one to the new element. Reverse the process in putting it all together. Turn on the power and walla you've have a new stove. You just save $600 plus.
I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.
The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.
I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.