Models > 1106007712

1106007712 Kenmore Dryer - Overview

Sections of the 1106007712

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
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(63)
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$7.32
  In Stock
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Thrust Washer – Part Number: WP233520
Thrust Washer
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS11740482
Manufacturer #: WP233520
This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found...
$7.76
  In Stock
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Light Bulb - 10W – Part Number: WP22002263
Light Bulb - 10W
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(16)
PartSelect #: PS11739347
Manufacturer #: WP22002263
This ten watt appliance light bulb is two inches tall. It is used with both washers and dryers.
$12.11
  In Stock
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Screw, 8/18 x 3/8 – Part Number: WP90767
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$7.76
  In Stock
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Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
Lid Switch
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PartSelect #: PS11723153
Manufacturer #: W10820036
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
$27.88
  In Stock
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Door Cable – Part Number: 230131
Door Cable
PartSelect #: PS333104
Manufacturer #: 230131
This dryer door cable is intended for use with spring part number PS343422. This cable is compatible with many of Whirlpool/Kenmore's brands of gas and electric clothes dryers.   No Longer Available
Front Top Lock – Part Number: WP18776
Front Top Lock
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS11738705
Manufacturer #: WP18776
This part is used to secure the top panel to the cabinet. Sold individually.
$9.79
  In Stock
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Single Door Spring – Part Number: WP337186
Single Door Spring
PartSelect #: PS11741307
Manufacturer #: WP337186
***The manufacturer suggests to replace both springs at the same time.***
$7.76
  In Stock
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Hex Nut – Part Number: WP488130
Hex Nut
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS11742711
Manufacturer #: WP488130
This hex nut is an authentic Whirlpool part that is sourced directly from the original equipment manufacturer, and will fit a variety of appliances including ovens, microwaves, refrigerators, air cond...
$9.24
  In Stock
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Screw – Part Number: WP98165
Screw
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS11747542
Manufacturer #: WP98165
This screw is a little under an inch long and is made of metal. It is used with a refrigerator's ice maker assembly. Sold individually.
$7.76
  In Stock
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Toe Panel Clip Kit – Part Number: 279638
Toe Panel Clip Kit
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS334241
Manufacturer #: 279638
$10.76
  In Stock
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Screw – Part Number: WP681414
Screw
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS11743744
Manufacturer #: WP681414
This screw is sold individually.
$7.76
  In Stock
Order within the next 11 hrs and your part ships today!

Questions And Answers for 1106007712

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Common Symptoms of the 1106007712

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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Will not tumble
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Will not drain
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Pumps but will not spin
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Will not agitate
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Will not shut off
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Door won’t close
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Timer will not advance
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Burning smell
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Takes too long to dry
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer door cable broken
1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.

2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.

3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.

4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel

5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.

6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.

7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.

8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.

9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.

10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.

11. Repeat for other cable as needed.

12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
Parts Used:
Door Cable
  • George from Rochester Hills, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch
  • Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
Parts Used:
Lid Switch
  • Glen from Plano, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
22 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
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