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11027132410 Kenmore Washer - Overview

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Washer D-Shaped Knob Insert – Part Number: WP8536939
$9.62
In Stock
Washer D-Shaped Knob Insert
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP8536939
This insert is sold individually. Knob not included. Knob is sold separately.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$9.62
In Stock
Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: W11220230
$97.35
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
Part #W11220230
This is a water inlet valve made for washing machines. This part is used to control the flow of water into the fill hose of the washing machine, to allow the washer to fill up with water. If your washing machine is not filling up with water properly, or if you are noticing leaks underneath your washing machine, the inlet valve has likely failed and you will likely need to replace it. This OEM inlet valve features two different inlets for hot and cold water but does not come with any other parts or accessories for installation. To replace this water inlet valve, you will need tools such as a screwdriver or wrench to gain access to it and remove it.
Washer Washplate Screw – Part Number: W10752187
$7.47
In Stock
SLIDER – Part Number: W10734521
$48.45
In Stock
SLIDER
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #W10734521
This clutch slider kit is genuine OEM replacement kit that fits in various models of washing machine. It is a part of the transmission system in your washer which is responsible for controlling the movement of the agitator during the wash and spin cycles. The assembly includes the clutch band, slider, and lock ring. The kit helps to regulate the speed and direction of the agitator or drum. It allows the machine to start and stop spinning smoothly, as well as change speeds as needed during the wash and spin cycles. If the clutch slider kit has worn or damaged components, it can lead to problems like difficulty starting or stopping the machine, excessive noise during operation, or failure to spin properly.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WPW10109200
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WPW10109200
11-16 x 3/4 Sold individually.
CLUTCH – Part Number: W10754448
$98.24
In Stock
CLUTCH
Part #W10754448
This is a clutch designed for use within top-load washers. The clutch is used to engage the transmission of your washer during the agitation and spinning cycles, to ensure it runs properly. If your washing machine is not agitating or spinning properly, the clutch could be the problem, and it will need to be tested and then potentially replaced. To replace the clutch in your washing machine, you will need to disassemble your washer from underneath, and will need a socket wrench and screwdriver as a result. This clutch is an OEM part and is only sold with a single securing screw.
Water Drain Pump – Part Number: WPW10581874
$92.15
In Stock
Water Drain Pump
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WPW10581874
Genuine OEM WPW10581874 Washer Drain Pump. The drain pump removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle.
Gearcase – Part Number: W11393685
$204.36
In Stock
Gearcase
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #W11393685
This washer gearcase is a genuine replacement component engineered to restore the core mechanical functions of your washing machine. Also known as a transmission assembly, it drives both the agitator and the spin basket, ensuring effective washing and water extraction during the spin cycle. Compatible with select models from Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and other affiliated brands, this OEM part is essential for resolving issues such as failure to agitate or spin, poor washing performance, unusual noises, or internal leaks. Replacing a faulty gearcase can significantly improve your washer’s efficiency and extend its service life. Installation should be performed with the appliance unplugged and may require moderate technical skill.
Refrigerator Single Hex Head Screw – Part Number: WP489069
$7.47
In Stock
Refrigerator Single Hex Head Screw
Part #WP489069
Sold individually. The size of this screw is 1/4" hex head and 10-12 x 1/2".
Suspension Rod Kit – Part Number: W11130359
$98.22
In Stock
Suspension Rod Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #W11130359
This suspension rod kit is a genuine OEM replacement designed to stabilize the inner drum of your washing machine and reduce excessive movement during operation. The kit includes four suspension rods, each approximately 27 inches long, along with the necessary securing components. These rods absorb vibrations and prevent the drum from banging against the cabinet, helping maintain quiet and efficient performance. Over time, suspension rods can wear out or break, leading to increased noise or instability. Replacing them requires partial disassembly of the washer and basic tools such as a screwdriver, wrench, and flat tool. Proper installation restores balance and protects internal components from damage.
Washer Water Pressure Hose Cut to Fit – Part Number: WP353244
$53.20
In Stock
Washer Water Pressure Hose Cut to Fit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP353244
This is the hose that tells your appliance if your tub is at the desired water level.

Questions And Answers for 11027132410

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Quinn - For model number 11027132410
December 27, 2019
What is error code e2 f6
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Quinn, thank you for your inquiry. The F6 E2 alert indicates there is issue with the appliance control unit, user interface or associated wiring. Unplug the washer, wait five minutes, then plug back in. We hope this information helps!
5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas - For model number 11027132410
August 15, 2025
Washer stops half way through wash cycle. Appears to be just before rinse or final spin. Have to unplug, wait for lights to clear, plug back in go to rinse/spin, make sure “two rinse” is off and push start. It will then spin. Then it stalls again, complete and door locked lights on. Unplug, wait for lights to go off, plug back in and then it will unlock?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Thomas, thank you for contacting us. If the lid lock assembly is faulty, the washer might stop mid-cycle because it thinks the lid is open. Check the lid lock for any signs of damage or wear. Its part number is PS11722981. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
$80.82
In Stock
Lid Lock Assembly
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Jamie - For model number 11027132410
September 24, 2025
Washer has a very loud roaring noise during the spin cycle, almost like a worn bearing.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Jamie, thank you for reaching out. The loud roaring noise during the spin cycle is likely due to a worn bearing, which is built into the gearcase. Since the bearing is not sold separately, resolving the issue typically requires replacing the entire gear case assembly. The part number is PS12741641. We hope this solves your problem!
$204.36
In Stock
Gearcase
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Common Symptoms of the 11027132410

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Loud grinding noise when the washer was in use.
69 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from STARKVILLE, MS
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
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Washer making noise on spin cycle
20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from MAYNARDVILLE, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
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Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
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