Models > 10651143110

10651143110 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the 10651143110

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Manuals & Care Guides for 10651143110

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Refrigerator Air Filter – Part Number: W10311524
Refrigerator Air Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(42)
PartSelect #: PS2580853
Manufacturer #: W10311524
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$20.92
  In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(25)
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$43.36
  In Stock
Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(38)
PartSelect #: PS11757023
Manufacturer #: WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$52.54
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(70)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$27.83
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP489483
Screw
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$13.00
  In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
Touch-Up Paint - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.44
  In Stock
Seal – Part Number: WP2198628
Seal
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★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS11739241
Manufacturer #: WP2198628
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
$14.12
  In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: WP2169142
Evaporator Fan Blade
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS11738973
Manufacturer #: WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$36.04
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP489478
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742754
Manufacturer #: WP489478
Sold individually.
$7.76
  In Stock
Thimble Top – Part Number: WP2182181
Thimble Top
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS11739043
Manufacturer #: WP2182181
For white, biscuit, black and stainless models.
$8.79
  In Stock
Icemaker Motor Kit – Part Number: 8201515
Icemaker Motor Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS733947
Manufacturer #: 8201515
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
$117.58
  In Stock
Single Primary Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WPW10238100
Single Primary Water Inlet Valve
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★★★★★
(14)
PartSelect #: PS11750831
Manufacturer #: WPW10238100
When energized, this part releases water from the supply line into the ice mold.
$110.15
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for 10651143110

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Common Symptoms of the 10651143110

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Clicking sound
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Door won’t open or close
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Not dispensing water
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
Parts Used:
Capacitor
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
354 of 396 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Parts Used:
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
150 of 168 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Door Switch
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
96 of 130 people found this instruction helpful.
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