This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack ...
This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
This OEM, clear convertible meat drawer can be used to store meats or vegetables and is designed for the lower portion of your refrigerator, generally. It has its own cold air duct to allow cold air f...
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
How do i change the lightbulb inside the refrigerator?
For model number 10650023211
Thank you for your question. You will need to remove the control box on the ceiling of the refrigerator by unscrewing it off and then you will be able to access the light bulb to replace. We hope this helps.
Fridge & freezer not cold, compressor warm but not running, fan running. What could be problem & what parts to repair.
For model number 10650023211
Hi Samuel, thank you for your question. If both the refrigerator and freezer sections are too warm, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. The part that fixes the issue the majority of the time is bi-metal defrost thermostat. From our website, the defrost thermostat is a safety thermostat in series with the defrost heater and is used to terminate the defrost cycle when the evaporator reaches a specific temperature, usually rated at 38° to 47° Fahrenheit. If the thermostat is defective and remains open circuit, then the defrost heater will not be energized and no defrosting will take place. You will need to test the part with a multimeter. Set your multi-meter to the Rx1 setting. Place each of the probes on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multi-meter. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If it does not, you will need to replace it. If this is not the issue, you will need to check the compressor start relay, the evaporator fan motor, the capacitor and the condenser fan motor. We hope this helps!
Hello, I have a cracked elbow joint that connects the water inlet valve and water valve tubing. Water will leak whenever the ice maker fills with water. What is the correct part to replace?
For model number 10650023211
Hello Tate, thank you for your question. The part is Water Valve Tubing that has a curved elbow and it is part PS11757031. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6") 2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec) 3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec) 3) removed the fan motor (1") 4) put in the new fan motor (1") 5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec) 6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec) 7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6") Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.