Models > 10451-3

10451-3 General Electric Range - Overview

Sections of the 10451-3

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Burner Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10015
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
★★★★★
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(25)
PartSelect #: PS244399
Manufacturer #: WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
$12.93
  In Stock
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Burner Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10014
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS244398
Manufacturer #: WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
$10.98
  In Stock
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Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
Oven Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$146.25
  In Stock
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Door Handle – Part Number: WB15X10048
Door Handle
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★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect #: PS232127
Manufacturer #: WB15X10048
Handle only. Screws not included.
$69.21
  In Stock
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Washer - 12 Pack – Part Number: WB1X119D
Washer - 12 Pack
PartSelect #: PS234480
Manufacturer #: WB1X119D
$10.98
  In Stock
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Leveling Leg – Part Number: WB2X8248
Leveling Leg
PartSelect #: PS242986
Manufacturer #: WB2X8248
  No Longer Available
HANGER – Part Number: WB2X3165
HANGER
PartSelect #: PS242069
Manufacturer #: WB2X3165
  No Longer Available
STRIKE CKTOP – Part Number: WB2X8107
STRIKE CKTOP
PartSelect #: PS242881
Manufacturer #: WB2X8107
  No Longer Available
WHEEL CHASSIS – Part Number: WB2M2451
WHEEL CHASSIS
PartSelect #: PS241745
Manufacturer #: WB2M2451
  No Longer Available
RACK BROILER PAN – Part Number: WB48M80
RACK BROILER PAN
PartSelect #: PS249570
Manufacturer #: WB48M80
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for 10451-3

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Common Symptoms of the 10451-3

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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
217 of 249 people found this instruction helpful.
Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
37 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor
After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Joseph from Brick, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.