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Washer leaked from top, left corner of machine.
Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back. Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch. removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine. Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
Unplugged power cord then disconnected the water supply and drain hose. Removed 2 screws and took the front panel off. Laid washer on it's side and posistioned the transmission with the cover facing upward. Removed the hex head screws then used a razor knife and a putty knife to remove the silicone sealant. Found that the agitator shaft spring had broken and fallen into the housing jamming the gears that's used in agitation. Removed the oil and all broken pieces of the spring. Installed new shaft spring, replaced the oil then applied sealant to the cover and screwed the cover back down. Let the washer stay in the same posistion for about 18 hours to let sealant dry completely. Then I sat the washer back on it's feet and removed 2 screws that holds the top lid in place. This allowed me access to the tub cover where the injector t is located. Installed the injector t along with the injector tube seal. Connected the hose and hose clamp. Then I put the lid back down and secured with the screws. Connected the water supply and drain hose then the power and selected a wash time and observed the operation. Everything worked ok so I put the front cover back on. Note: I had used the injector t from this washer to fix another washer that an appliance dealer had given me to use for parts to repair the one just described above. That was the only thing that was wrong with it. It was used for about a year and a half and it developed a problem in the spin cycle. Appears to be a brake problem. I intend to repair it as well.
I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
Although the motor was running, washer wouldn't agitate or spin.
After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched between the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.
Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.
When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.
In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.
Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.
I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.
I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.
Top Half of Agitator would not function without appying sideways pressure
Heard about the website... 1 minute to find it, 10 minutes to order new cogs... 3 day wait for new parts... Rec'd Fedex, 15 minutes total to pull the agitator cover (bleach dispenser) then the bung cover with o-ring (just lift out) expose bolt, unskrew and remove top portion of agitator or entire agitator if it's easier. Seperate, remove black cog holder (slides up the spindle) and replace cogs one at a time just like the old ones. Reassemble in reverse and you are back in business. Saved the $75 deductible on my home appliance warrenty. You guys are the best... cheers...
1. Removed the softener dispenser 2. Removed the cap covering the clutch dogs and the bolt holding it all in place. 3. Removed the bolt holding the two agitator pieces and the clutch dogs together. 4. Removed the two agitator parts. 5. Replaced the clutch dogs. 6. Reassembled and put the bolt back in place. 7. Replaced the gasket on the cover that goes over the clutch and bolt. 8. Replaced the softener dispenser
Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.
I want to mention only the difficult parts. The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet. Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.
Agitator was barely agitating. Making a clicking noise.
Removed agitator cap. Removed bolt inside with socket wrench. Located plastic cogs Pulled out old cogs and slid in new cogs and put back together and works great. Easy to take apart and put back together. Very cheap repair. Cogs less that $4.00 plus shipping. Shipped next working day.
I took the front panel off the machine and then removed the two screws that held the top on. Cut the hose clamps off the hoses and replace the injector sleeve, valve, housing, and hose to tub. I am not sure what the function of this is, other than to inject air into the water before it goes into the tub. Very easy to do if you know how to open up the washing machine.
