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Washer did not drain.
Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.
Washer would leak from injector hose during fill-up
Removed the two phillips screws from the bottom front of the machine. Removed the two bolts under the front lip of the top. Raised the lid and propped it up. Disconnected the hose clamp attaching the water fill tube to the valve assembly. Removed the bolt holding the plastic injector to the edge of side panel. Twisted and removed the fill tube from the tub rim. Re-installed new assembly in reverse and all bolts.
Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid
Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.
Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.
1. Unplug washing machine. 2. Remove front cover (2 screws). 3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!). 4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.
This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.
Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).
I broke the elbow when I pulled the washer too far from the wall for another repair.
I removed 2 screws holding the front of the cabinet and set the front panel aside. Next I removed the screw securing the relay and water level switch to the front of the cabinet, and removed 4 screws holding the top of the washer to the cabinet. I removed the hose, then removed the 4 screws securing the siphon break to the rear panel and pulled it inside the cabinet. I removed the elbow and gasket, installed the new elbow and gasket, and reassembled all parts previously removed. I reconnected the hose and fastened it to the drain, and I was back in business. It took about 35 minutes.
This was an easy repair. 1st I removed both water hoses 2nd I removed 1 hex head screw that released a backing plate & removed the plate holding the water inlet valve. 3rd I pulled the 4 electrical connections & loosened a clamp to remove a small water hose. 4th I removed 2 hex head screws that held the water valve to the backing plate. -----------that was a whole 5 - 10 minutes!------------ Next I reversed the process 4th I attached the inlet valve with the 2 hex head screws 5th re-attached the 4 electrical connections(had slip on spades) pushed on the hose & tighterned the clamp. 6th replaced the backing plate with the inlet valve attached & tightened the single hex head screw. 7th re-attached the hot & cold lines................................DONE 15 minutes tops
followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.
STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in... THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure: The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference. Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things. Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Washer would fill but not continue the cycle
I looked at the common problems in the owners manual and one item was the lid was not closed or the lid switch was bad. I took off the control panel and there was a schematic inside. This showed 2 lid switches. When trying to see if one switch was closed as it should be, touching the multimeter to the contacts was enough to get the washer going. .
checked lid switch ,plunger stuck in the in position 1 amp fuse blown took switch apart it was full of green copper corrosion stopping plunger from moving correctly. replaced switch and fuse and wow washer works
Removed control faceplate (2 screws on top edge and flip forward). Removed wires one-by-one with needle-nose pliers and replaced on new switch to avoid mixing the connections. Removed screw and replaced switch then, replaced screw. Moderately tightened new part and operated lid. Listened for click open and closed. Adjusted switch position for proper "click". Tightened screw and replaced front panel. Done in about 10 minutes.
The plunger was worn down. Washer would shut off during the washing cycle.
I started by unplugging the washing machine from the wall outlet. I then proceded to remove four screws from the top of the control panel. After removing the screws I put two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the lid and applied force to pry the lid from the ball joints holding it in place. This was the part that was the most difficult in my opinion. After the lid was off, I removed the bolt that was holding the fuse switch in place and removed that from the slots. Next I unscrewed the two screws on opposite sides of the switch head where it makes the contact with the lid. This allows you to remove the switch assembly out of the unit. Once the assembly was out, I assembled pieced the new parts together by looking at the old parts. Then, I placed the new assembly back in the unit. Be careful when you put in the new assembly that you test the switch and make sure you hear the "Click" from the switch. After that I reversed all the steps and put the unit back together.
Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.
This was a Maytag A490 of indeterminate age. Unscrewed 2 lower screws holding on front cover, removed cover. Used socket wrench to remove 2 screws holding top cover down, lifted top cover, removed old injector, replaced. The new injector didn't exactly match the shape of the old one and the lid wouldn't close. So I had to cut off some of the plastic shroud that came on the new one (didn't cut easily but I used a utility knife - BE CAREFUL). Afterwards, went in smoothly.
Of couse, turn off water to machine. Remove hoses. Then had to open unit - easiest by popping spring in with flat blade in seam under lid. Screws holding valve are on back of unit at hose inlet, so simply unscrew to remove failed valve. Clamp holding hose onto valve is crimped with pliers to remove. I suggest spending the 50 cents a hardware store for new clamp, as my reattachment of existing clamp onto new value leaked. There are four electrical connectors, so remember order in which you removed them and return to same on new unit. Reassemble in reverse (hoses, water on) and your all set. Pretty easy: I figure it would be about $200 for service guy and part. My cost: $30 and 30 minutes