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Upper oven bake igniter went bad
You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.
Replaced Igniter, only problem was the connector was in the back of the unit. I had to take off the back of the unit. About 12 small hex screws to make connection. Other than that it was pretty easy.
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
I repair it by shutting off the gas. removing the back panel of the stove . unplug the electrical sensor cord to the igniter. Then replace with new one.
Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.
This is a double oven unit. Both the upper and lower igniters are easy to get to, with just a few screws to remove. However in order to reach the quick disconnects, the back of the oven needs to be removed. So there are a bunch of screws to take off and the oven needs to be moved away from the wall. Pulling out the igniter wires and putting the new ones back in, is easy. Then put all the screws back on and move the oven back to the wall. Don't forget to disconnect the power when you do all this.
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.