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Washer stuck on sensing
I have a Kenmore he 500 series washer that would not get out of the sensing mode. Googled the problem. It let me know it could be the water inlet valve. So I ordered the valve through Part select (mailed to me with in days of ordering) Had a towel and small bowl for nuts and screws. Shut off water to washer, disconnected hoses, used screwdriver and socket wrench to unscrew the back of washer (since it was my first time to ever do something like this on my own, I took pictures to make sure everything went back in place) replaced valve. It was an easy connection. Washer works great
Top agitator not turning-teeth on cam dogs worn off
Had no problem. The instructions included with the repair parts were very easy to follow and even specified the tools to use. I had it done, back on the washer and washing clothes in about a half an hour. The down side(no fault of the parts) was that the entire pump system went out on the second load and we wound up with a new Whirpool washer, since repairs were more than the machine was worth. Thanks Parts select for your help. I plan to search your net for more products. Fixing things from engines to microswitches is a hobby for me.
Remove softener dispencer, use flat tip screw driver to remove agitator cap, there is a slot, insert flat tip screw driver and pry up, once removed you will see the damaged dogs or cogs, use 3/8 drive ratchet with 10 or 12 inch extention and if memory serves me correct a 9/16 socket, loosen bolt and remove top agitator, there is a thrust washer between bottom and top agitator, it comes in the kit, use a little grease preferrably water resistant grease on top of washer, replace top agitator then the plastic device that the cog are inserted into and tighten bolt, put agitator cover back on with a gentle slap of the palm and reinstall softener dispencer, you are done and cloths will agitate properly again, fairly easy job and washer agitator works like new, great kit, would reccomend.
took off the soap dispenser, removed the agitator using a 7/16" socket with an extension. replaced the old top agitator dogs and retaining ring with new ones, re-installed top agitator on bottom, thenput whole assembly back shaft, dropped in bold and tightened. whole experience was fast and simple. the parts came fast and where a perfect fit.
When to PartSelect Web site, used their trouble shooting guide, Used their advice, which was to replace the actuator. bought and installed the actuator which took around 20 minutes or so. washer started working fine after replacing. Thanks to the website I save a lot of money. Thanks PartSelect
OEM water valve was allowing water to drip into the drum with no power to the valve.
Removed two 1/4” screws from the backside of control panel. Plastic putty knife slide under front of control panel to release the clips and allowing panel removal. Shut water supply off and removed both hot/cold hoses from valves. Removed the two T-20 screws which allowed the removal of the existing leaking valve assembly. Installed in reverse and it worked perfectly!!
When the washer would go into spin cycle it sounded like the drum was banging all four sides of the washer.
Unplugged from power, unhooked water lines.Then removed back cover and control panel and top set to the side. Rear rods very easy to do by yourself after those where done have help and tip it backwards and change out the front 2 then reassembled and hooked back up and tested. Everything worked like brand new !!!
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained. Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet . Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them. Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine. Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver. Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub . Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench. Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place . Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) . Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut. Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart. Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear. Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
I already had the old agitator out, so when I got the new one I put it in the tub. You have to spin it a little so it seats properly. I then tightened the bolt with a 7/16” socket and my wife was washing a load within 15 minutes
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
wanting to see this new energy efficient washer work, with the lid open
There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle. I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working. To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run. So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.
