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Noisy and thumping drum
I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.
The dryer drum would not rotate when the start button was pushed.
First this I did was to disconnect the power cord. Then I removed the screws that held on the door and the two on the other opposite side. This allowed the front panel to be removed. Next I removed the top two screws which allowed the top to hinge up and out of the way. Then I removed the rest of the screws that held the front drum support and moved it to the side. I did have to unclip the wires that ran to the interior light. I did not how ever have to disconnect any wires at the front of the dryer. Next I reached in from the bottom of the drum and released the drive belt from the spring loaded pulley. at this point the drum was able to be removed out the front of the unit. This gave access to the motor. It was necessary to remove the several screws that held on the front half of the fan housing. Again I did not remove any wires as this too could be moved to the side out of the way. I then removed the snap ring and clamp from the fan end of the motor shaft and pulled the fan off of the shaft. Next I unclipped the wiring connector from the top of the motor and used a screw driver to pry the connector off. Next I used a socket on a long extension to push down on the motor clamps while tilting the socket out to allow the clips to release. I then removed and replaced the motor and assembled in the reverse order. While I had the drum out I inspected the rear support wheels and noted that one would hardly turn. I removed both wheels via a nut on the back side of the shafts. I found that one had shifted on the bushing and was making contact with the frame. I used a vise to press the wheel back into the correct location. I also applied anti seize with a small amount of dry graphite to both wheels and insured that the both rotated freely. I then installed the front two glide slide pads using the pop rivets provided in the kits. I used a shop vac and cleaned any lint from inside the dryer. I then reassembled the front covers in reverse of the disassembly process. I rotated the drum by hand prior to applying power. I also ran the unit with the heat off for the first five minutes. Total cost was under $160.00 or half of the replacement cost.
My dryer - which is about 20 years old - was starting to make some rubbing/scraping sounds from the drum area.
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site. 1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel. 2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection. 3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides. 4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath. 5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket. 6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip. 7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!) 8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.
Dryer Baffle broke off and rear felt seal was pulled out
1. Remove 2 screws that hold door hinges on. 2. Remove 2 screws on opposite side of door hinge and remove 2 plastic clips. 3. There are 2 hex screws that hold the front panel on. Remove these and the panel is held on by a flex clip. Gently twist the top towards the outside of the dryer and they will come free. 4. tilt panel forward and lift of 2 clips at the bottom. 5. Remove the screws under the cover panel which will release the drum holder and lint collector. 6. Lift top of dryer and lift out drum. TAKE THE TIME SINCE THE UNIT IS OPEN TO VACUUM OUT THE ENTIRE DRYER. CLEAN OUT THE EXAUST TO IMPROVE EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY. 7. I replaced the rear felt by using a flat head screwdriver to lift tabs and install felt. Using the screwdrive I compressed the tabs to hold the felt. 8. The baffle was installed inside the drum and using 2 hex bolts to hold the baffle in. I added 2 washers since the hole was inlarged due to the baffle becoming loose and pulling through the metal drum. 9. Re-install the drum and push rear felt to the outside of the drum. 10. The front drum needs to be installed. Push the felt to the outside of the drum and check the rear felt to ensure it is still on the outsid of the drum. Install 4 hex screws to secure front drum holder. 11. Insatall lint catch unit with 4 additional hex screws. 12. Verify the lint collection panel lins up with the exhaust fan at the base. When units line up tighten all 8 hex screws. 13. Reinstall front cover panel by inserting panel on bottom clips and tilt up to the dryer. The top corners are gently twisted to the outside of the dryer to reattach to the spring clips. Use 2 hex screws to attach panel. 14. Re-attach plastic clips and 2 screws on side opposite of door hinges. 15. Re-attach door hinges with 2 screws. Cleck to ensure the door closes. 16. Check dryer operation.
All three baffles fell out of dryer drum; one by one in a week time span; of course the warranty expired in May of 2007. Figures!
Had to remove the dryer door and back top screws to access the drum. Once this was accomplished all that had to be done was to turn the drum by hand and replace each baffle and (two) screws each.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
Dryer stopped heating after a few days of it being an intermintant problem. I ohmed the heating coil and it was fine @ 12-15 ohms and the 2 sensors were open so I knew they were not the problem. The only item left was the Heater Relay. As soon as it was changed, dryer operated as it should.
A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.
