Plumber had suggested trying a new gasket rather than replace the dishwasher. Ordered one and installed it. Cleaned door and installed gasket in about 30 minutes. So far it works great .... and ... cheaper than new dishwasher.
1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
It was really simple. I watched the u-tube video to replace the top rack. I was able to complete removal of the old one and replacement with the new one in about 5 minutes. The lower rack simply pulled out and the new one slid right in. The quality of the replacement racks is much higher than the originals. I'm so happy I chose this easy and cost efficient repair.
The part came in as ordered. After removing the dish rack, I loosened three 1/4" screws (two on the strainer basket and one at the base of the spray arm. I had to slide the rubber hose down and back to disconnect the base which I did by turning counter clockwise. The new one went in by reversing what I just described. Other than two of the screws being difficult to reach, everything worked fine.Thanks for your site.
The video was extremely helpful. Removing the tabs was easy. However, we struggled with the re-insertion. They did not "snap" back in as easily as seen on video. We ended up using a pair of pliers to push pieces into slot. We did not use very much pressure for fear of breaking the plastic. However, after many tries, we were successful & it works perfectly. Perhaps a close-up of the "snapping in" part might help future installers.
Dishwasher would not fill with water and switches on front panel would not work properly.
A short investigation revieled that one of the wires going to the malfunctioning switch was burnt and the connector had come loose from the switch assembly. The old assemble was replaced in a short period of time and all is well.
The replacement of door rubber seal was easy as well as the corner boot tub baffles. I did take the door off to make cleaning and installing seal easy. I wish your web site would recommend if replacing certain parts, additional parts should be replaced at the same time. For my project I should have replaced the 3 inch separate seal located inside bottom of door. You can't see it until removal of the door. I am thankful for the easy to follow instructions other people wrote and it made the job much less stressful..
My suggestion is to replace all four rollers at the same time since they are all the same age. Fortunately, four rollers come in each pack you order. You need to remove the end cap on borh metal rack rods which takes a little doing. You cannot just pull the caps off. You need to twist the end cap to free up the little catch at the rear of the end cap. Once the end caps are off, just pull of the old rollers and install the new ones, replace the end caps and you're done.
